Although it is a member of the Thymelaeaceae, the family that includes the daphnes, it would be hard to imagine a plant less like a daphne at first glance. However, if you are familiar with the deciduous Daphne genkwa, there is some hint of resemblance there.
The genus comprises three very similar species from China and Japan. It is named after Michael Pakenham Edgeworth (1812-81), a part-time botanist, plant collector and employee of the East India Company.
The plant grown in our gardens and sold in garden centres is commonly labelled E. papyrifera, which is actually a different species. There is some confusion over this, even among botanists. Apparently E. papyrifera has white flowers, not the yellow of E. chrysantha, though some botanists regard them variations of one species.
Edgeworthia chrysantha is a heavily-wooded deciduous shrub. It grows to around 1.2-1.8 m high by 1.5 m wide. Its 12.5-17.5 cm long, pointed oval leaves are soft green with prominent midribs and felted when young.
The foliage is attractive, especially when young, but this is a plant grown for its flowers. They are bright yellow aging to creamy white, tubular and about 1 cm long. Individually they are nothing much, but they are densely packed in 8 cm diameter globose heads. The are very fragrant and open until late winter from buds that have been obvious from late autumn.
The flowers are followed by dry, purplish-green berries known technically as drupes.
This is an often underrated shrub and I'd be the first to admit that it is not always instantly appealing. At first, its rather sparse growth and very heavy branches can seem grotesque. But with time these things tend to be overlooked in favour of the delicate colouring and Edgeworthia Chrysantha
, and the beauty of the new foliage.
A moist, well-drained, humus-enriched soil with partial shade is best - the sort of conditions you would give your rhododendrons and camellias, or for that matter your daphnes. It is hardy to around -15°C and thrives in a cool temperate climate. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings, aerial layers or seed.
Try Edgeworthia, it's not difficult to grow and although bare for much of the year it has its moment of glory when flowering, and definitely has that 'weird' appeal that makes it one for the collector.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
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Saturday, September 26, 2009
Cyclamen
Think of cyclamen and the chances are that Mothers Day immediately comes to mind, which is something of a pity. Now don't misinterpret me, there's nothing wrong with mothers or with having a day for them, but it does seem a little unfortunate when such beautiful, adaptable and useful plants become so commercialised that there's difficulty escaping that association.
But no plant as beautiful as the wild cyclamen can remain so neatly packaged and presented as its cultivated forms may have it. Gardeners are always willing to experiment, to use outdoors what might be considered house plants and to seek out less widely grown but hardier species for their gardens.
Once thought to consist of many species, the genus Cyclamen is now considered to include just 19 species, some of which encompass subspecies and forms previously considered distinct. Related to the primroses, they form a few large tubers or numerous small ones, soon spreading to cover a considerable area, if happy. They occur naturally in southern Europe, neighbouring western Asia and the moister parts of North Africa with one species from Somalia, and as with many of the western Asian bulbs, corms and tubers, some species are now rare in the wild because they have been over-collected by commercial bulb gatherers and enthusiasts.
Cyclamen are generally most at home in fairly dry, partly shaded, well-drained conditions such as might be found in a rockery. Although hardiness varies with the species, if planted in well-chosen sites, all can be grown in coastal New Zealand gardens and many can be cultivated inland too. While the exact flowering time varies with the species, none bloom to any great extent in summer, the cooler months from March to October being the main season.
Common species
The best-known cyclamen is Cyclamen persicum, which is so widely cultivated as an indoor or gift plant that it usually known as the florist's cyclamen. This species, or rather the countless cultivars or probably hybrids derived from it, is a native of the eastern Mediterranean, Libya and the islands of Rhodes and Crete. The true species, sometimes seen but often hard to differentiate from the cultivated forms, has dark green leaves heavily marbled with silver-grey and its fragrant flowers, which have reflexed petals up to 3 cm long, may be white, mauve or any shade of pink from pale to cerise. This natural variability and the ease with which it adapts to pot culture has made the plant what it is today - a universal favourite.
Cyclamen persicum is so well known that it's fashionable to dismiss it as being too common and to look instead for less widely grown species. However, anything that is popular becomes so for a reason and you don't have to search for the secrets to the success of the florist's cyclamen. It has lush foliage, masses of beautiful flowers in a huge range of colours and styles, it blooms from autumn to spring and can be grown indoors or outdoors in mild climates. What else could you possibly want?
Well, perhaps you might want greater frost hardiness, more flowers with less foliage, greater sun tolerance and the kind of diminutive stature that makes the finest rockery and alpine plants so appealing. And that's where the three species that come next in the list of the most widely grown cyclamen really shine, features not lost on the gardeners to which we often look for guidance, the British.
Cyclamen have always been popular in Britain but Cyclamen persicum rarely succeeds outdoors in the British climate. Consequently other species have been sought out and developed as garden plants. The first of these was the local Cyclamen purpurascens, from central and eastern Europe, which in its common form was formerly known as Cyclamen europaeum. This small species has marbled, rounded to ivy-like leaves and deep pink flowers that open from late summer. While still popular in British and European gardens, Cyclamen purpurascens is not commonly met with here, though its style of growth paved the way into cultivation for three species that are: Cyclamen coum, Cyclamen hederifolium and Cyclamen repandum.
Cyclamen coum
Undoubtedly my favourite, this tough little plant is found from Bulgaria and the Caucasus to the northern parts of Syria and Iran and may extend southwards into Israel. It dark leaves are small, usually 25 to 50mm wide, and are heavily marbled, with reddish undersides. The flowers are tiny too and may be white, pale pink or tending towards magenta. They open from early winter and continue unabated into spring. The flowers are remarkably resistant to frost and although they can look very downhearted when frozen, they immediately perk-up on thawing out. This is a terrific plant for rockeries or alpine troughs and is at home in sun or partial shade.
Cyclamen hederifolium
Formerly known as Cyclamen neapolitanum and still widely sold under that name, the attractively marbled, ivy-like foliage of this native of southern Europe and Turkey dies away in spring and does not reappear until well after the plant has started to flower in late summer. The small flowers occur in a wide range of shades and when spent, their stems start to coil like springs and turn downwards to the ground as the seed capsules develop.
Cyclamen repandum
This species is found from southern France to Greece and has large, lobed leaves that are dark green with conspicuous silver-grey mottling and marbling. Considering its lush foliage, spring blooming habit and Mediterranean homeland, it is surprisingly frost hardy. Its flowers are pleasantly scented, have petals up to 20mm long and occur in white and all shades of pink to light red.
These three species are so common that if you see a garden cyclamen that is obviously not Cyclamen persicum then the chances are that it's Cyclamen coum, Cyclamen hederifolium, Cyclamen repandum or one of the subspecies or forms of those species. However, collectors and enthusiasts, being what they are, have imported other species that you may occasionally have the pleasure of seeing.
Rarities
With so few species in the genus I'm reluctant to say that any of them aren't cultivated. Indeed, it's very likely that they're all in gardens - somewhere - in one form or another. But while I've learnt to never say never when it comes to stating what's to be found in our gardens, I'm yet to see the Somalian species, Cyclamen somalense.
Another exclusively African species, Cyclamen africanum, from Algeria is also very rare. It has rather glossy, toothed edged leaves up to 10 cm wide and its 25mm flowers, which are deep pink and open in autumn, have the scent of violets. It is somewhat similar to Cyclamen hederifolium and along with the white- to deep pink-flowered Cyclamen ciliatum from Turkey is usually the first cyclamen to start blooming in late summer or early autumn.
Also from Africa, the Libyan Cyclamen rohlfsianum has silvery marbled bright green leaves with a covering of fine pinkish hairs when young. Its bright pink flowers open in autumn and are often scented. It dislikes winter wet and is best grown in pots with the addition of some limestone chips.
The eastern Mediterranean species: Cyclamen creticum, from Crete; Cyclamen cyprium, from Cyprus; Cyclamen graecum, from Greece, the Aegean islands and southern Turkey; and Cyclamen libanoticum, from Syria and Lebanon, are all to be seen locally, though none are common. However, because these species are becoming increasingly rare in the wild and live in areas that are threatened by that most pernicious of predators, the tourist, we should be doing our bit to ensure their survival by making them more widely available.
They are, in the main, dainty plants with small leaves and pink flowers. Cyclamen graecum has some of the most beautiful foliage in the genus. In addition to the usual silver-grey mottling, its leaves have pale to vivid green veins, maroon undersides and reddish teeth.
Cultivation
As mentioned earlier, cyclamen generally prefer partial shade, very well drained, somewhat dry soil and cool conditions. They thrive in lightly shaded rockeries, growing happily in the crevices between rocks and also adapt well to container cultivation, especially in alpine troughs. Most species have a preference for neutral to slightly alkaline conditions. Adding a few limestone chips to the soil aids the drainage and keeps the pH about right.
That said, tough species like Cyclamen hederifolium usually adapt well to being cultivated with acid soil plants such as ericas and dwarf rhododendrons, so don't be afraid to experiment.
While a few species, such as Cyclamen libanoticum, prefer their tubers to be below the surface, in most cases the top of the tuber should be at or above the soil surface. This helps keep the tubers dry in winter and ensures that the crown of flower and foliage stems does not rot off at ground level. The tubers of indoor potted cyclamen should be kept dry - water the soil surface, not the tuber - and even then only when it has dried.
Cyclamen are not heavy feeders. Regular feeding with mild liquid fertilisers will keep house-grown cyclamen flowering well, while a light application of general garden fertiliser during the summer dormant season is enough to ensure that outdoor plants continue to thrive.
Pests and diseases are rare on healthy plants and when present are usually a sign of poor growing conditions. While slugs and snails can attack outdoor cyclamen, they should otherwise be pest-free. If indoor cyclamen show signs of botrytis, mildew of other soft rots, the soil conditions are probably too damp. If mealy bugs and scale insects occur they may indicate low humidity or may have spread from other plants that have been infested.
Propagation
Most cyclamen are bought in nurseries as ready-grown container plants intended, in the case of Cyclamen persicum, for growing indoors, or otherwise for planting out. As they grow and their tubers multiply, they can be lifted and dived when dormant.
This slow and steady method of propagation ensures a continuity of growth, but if you need to speed up your cyclamen reproduction consider propagating the plants from seed. While some of the fancy-foliaged forms must be propagated vegetatively to maintain their characteristics, most cyclamen cultivars reproduce reasonably true to type from seed and the species certainly do.
Growing from seed is quite straightforward, though you may have to wait quite some time before the first flowers appear, typically 18 months to two years. Sow the seed when ripe, usually late spring to early summer, in a fairly light, gritty soil. The temperature should be cool, around 18°C, and the seed should be lightly covered with soil. If viable, most of the seed should have germinated within 28 to 42 days. The seedlings may be pricked out into individual pots as soon as they are large enough to easily handle without damaging their fleshy stems.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
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But no plant as beautiful as the wild cyclamen can remain so neatly packaged and presented as its cultivated forms may have it. Gardeners are always willing to experiment, to use outdoors what might be considered house plants and to seek out less widely grown but hardier species for their gardens.
Once thought to consist of many species, the genus Cyclamen is now considered to include just 19 species, some of which encompass subspecies and forms previously considered distinct. Related to the primroses, they form a few large tubers or numerous small ones, soon spreading to cover a considerable area, if happy. They occur naturally in southern Europe, neighbouring western Asia and the moister parts of North Africa with one species from Somalia, and as with many of the western Asian bulbs, corms and tubers, some species are now rare in the wild because they have been over-collected by commercial bulb gatherers and enthusiasts.
Cyclamen are generally most at home in fairly dry, partly shaded, well-drained conditions such as might be found in a rockery. Although hardiness varies with the species, if planted in well-chosen sites, all can be grown in coastal New Zealand gardens and many can be cultivated inland too. While the exact flowering time varies with the species, none bloom to any great extent in summer, the cooler months from March to October being the main season.
Common species
The best-known cyclamen is Cyclamen persicum, which is so widely cultivated as an indoor or gift plant that it usually known as the florist's cyclamen. This species, or rather the countless cultivars or probably hybrids derived from it, is a native of the eastern Mediterranean, Libya and the islands of Rhodes and Crete. The true species, sometimes seen but often hard to differentiate from the cultivated forms, has dark green leaves heavily marbled with silver-grey and its fragrant flowers, which have reflexed petals up to 3 cm long, may be white, mauve or any shade of pink from pale to cerise. This natural variability and the ease with which it adapts to pot culture has made the plant what it is today - a universal favourite.
Cyclamen persicum is so well known that it's fashionable to dismiss it as being too common and to look instead for less widely grown species. However, anything that is popular becomes so for a reason and you don't have to search for the secrets to the success of the florist's cyclamen. It has lush foliage, masses of beautiful flowers in a huge range of colours and styles, it blooms from autumn to spring and can be grown indoors or outdoors in mild climates. What else could you possibly want?
Well, perhaps you might want greater frost hardiness, more flowers with less foliage, greater sun tolerance and the kind of diminutive stature that makes the finest rockery and alpine plants so appealing. And that's where the three species that come next in the list of the most widely grown cyclamen really shine, features not lost on the gardeners to which we often look for guidance, the British.
Cyclamen have always been popular in Britain but Cyclamen persicum rarely succeeds outdoors in the British climate. Consequently other species have been sought out and developed as garden plants. The first of these was the local Cyclamen purpurascens, from central and eastern Europe, which in its common form was formerly known as Cyclamen europaeum. This small species has marbled, rounded to ivy-like leaves and deep pink flowers that open from late summer. While still popular in British and European gardens, Cyclamen purpurascens is not commonly met with here, though its style of growth paved the way into cultivation for three species that are: Cyclamen coum, Cyclamen hederifolium and Cyclamen repandum.
Cyclamen coum
Undoubtedly my favourite, this tough little plant is found from Bulgaria and the Caucasus to the northern parts of Syria and Iran and may extend southwards into Israel. It dark leaves are small, usually 25 to 50mm wide, and are heavily marbled, with reddish undersides. The flowers are tiny too and may be white, pale pink or tending towards magenta. They open from early winter and continue unabated into spring. The flowers are remarkably resistant to frost and although they can look very downhearted when frozen, they immediately perk-up on thawing out. This is a terrific plant for rockeries or alpine troughs and is at home in sun or partial shade.
Cyclamen hederifolium
Formerly known as Cyclamen neapolitanum and still widely sold under that name, the attractively marbled, ivy-like foliage of this native of southern Europe and Turkey dies away in spring and does not reappear until well after the plant has started to flower in late summer. The small flowers occur in a wide range of shades and when spent, their stems start to coil like springs and turn downwards to the ground as the seed capsules develop.
Cyclamen repandum
This species is found from southern France to Greece and has large, lobed leaves that are dark green with conspicuous silver-grey mottling and marbling. Considering its lush foliage, spring blooming habit and Mediterranean homeland, it is surprisingly frost hardy. Its flowers are pleasantly scented, have petals up to 20mm long and occur in white and all shades of pink to light red.
These three species are so common that if you see a garden cyclamen that is obviously not Cyclamen persicum then the chances are that it's Cyclamen coum, Cyclamen hederifolium, Cyclamen repandum or one of the subspecies or forms of those species. However, collectors and enthusiasts, being what they are, have imported other species that you may occasionally have the pleasure of seeing.
Rarities
With so few species in the genus I'm reluctant to say that any of them aren't cultivated. Indeed, it's very likely that they're all in gardens - somewhere - in one form or another. But while I've learnt to never say never when it comes to stating what's to be found in our gardens, I'm yet to see the Somalian species, Cyclamen somalense.
Another exclusively African species, Cyclamen africanum, from Algeria is also very rare. It has rather glossy, toothed edged leaves up to 10 cm wide and its 25mm flowers, which are deep pink and open in autumn, have the scent of violets. It is somewhat similar to Cyclamen hederifolium and along with the white- to deep pink-flowered Cyclamen ciliatum from Turkey is usually the first cyclamen to start blooming in late summer or early autumn.
Also from Africa, the Libyan Cyclamen rohlfsianum has silvery marbled bright green leaves with a covering of fine pinkish hairs when young. Its bright pink flowers open in autumn and are often scented. It dislikes winter wet and is best grown in pots with the addition of some limestone chips.
The eastern Mediterranean species: Cyclamen creticum, from Crete; Cyclamen cyprium, from Cyprus; Cyclamen graecum, from Greece, the Aegean islands and southern Turkey; and Cyclamen libanoticum, from Syria and Lebanon, are all to be seen locally, though none are common. However, because these species are becoming increasingly rare in the wild and live in areas that are threatened by that most pernicious of predators, the tourist, we should be doing our bit to ensure their survival by making them more widely available.
They are, in the main, dainty plants with small leaves and pink flowers. Cyclamen graecum has some of the most beautiful foliage in the genus. In addition to the usual silver-grey mottling, its leaves have pale to vivid green veins, maroon undersides and reddish teeth.
Cultivation
As mentioned earlier, cyclamen generally prefer partial shade, very well drained, somewhat dry soil and cool conditions. They thrive in lightly shaded rockeries, growing happily in the crevices between rocks and also adapt well to container cultivation, especially in alpine troughs. Most species have a preference for neutral to slightly alkaline conditions. Adding a few limestone chips to the soil aids the drainage and keeps the pH about right.
That said, tough species like Cyclamen hederifolium usually adapt well to being cultivated with acid soil plants such as ericas and dwarf rhododendrons, so don't be afraid to experiment.
While a few species, such as Cyclamen libanoticum, prefer their tubers to be below the surface, in most cases the top of the tuber should be at or above the soil surface. This helps keep the tubers dry in winter and ensures that the crown of flower and foliage stems does not rot off at ground level. The tubers of indoor potted cyclamen should be kept dry - water the soil surface, not the tuber - and even then only when it has dried.
Cyclamen are not heavy feeders. Regular feeding with mild liquid fertilisers will keep house-grown cyclamen flowering well, while a light application of general garden fertiliser during the summer dormant season is enough to ensure that outdoor plants continue to thrive.
Pests and diseases are rare on healthy plants and when present are usually a sign of poor growing conditions. While slugs and snails can attack outdoor cyclamen, they should otherwise be pest-free. If indoor cyclamen show signs of botrytis, mildew of other soft rots, the soil conditions are probably too damp. If mealy bugs and scale insects occur they may indicate low humidity or may have spread from other plants that have been infested.
Propagation
Most cyclamen are bought in nurseries as ready-grown container plants intended, in the case of Cyclamen persicum, for growing indoors, or otherwise for planting out. As they grow and their tubers multiply, they can be lifted and dived when dormant.
This slow and steady method of propagation ensures a continuity of growth, but if you need to speed up your cyclamen reproduction consider propagating the plants from seed. While some of the fancy-foliaged forms must be propagated vegetatively to maintain their characteristics, most cyclamen cultivars reproduce reasonably true to type from seed and the species certainly do.
Growing from seed is quite straightforward, though you may have to wait quite some time before the first flowers appear, typically 18 months to two years. Sow the seed when ripe, usually late spring to early summer, in a fairly light, gritty soil. The temperature should be cool, around 18°C, and the seed should be lightly covered with soil. If viable, most of the seed should have germinated within 28 to 42 days. The seedlings may be pricked out into individual pots as soon as they are large enough to easily handle without damaging their fleshy stems.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
________________________________________
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________________________________________
Layer Your Plantings
Part three in a seriesIn our last article, we helped you layout your new landscape. In this article we'll explore which plants to put where and what makes an effective landscape.
________________________________________
Flower Meanings & History of Flowers
The charming and delicate beauty of flowers has fascinated people of all nations and backgrounds for centuries. Flowers have been bred and cultivated for their decorative beauty as well as their ability to heal diseases.
________________________________________
Starting a Shade Garden...
The shade garden can be exploding with color and texture. No matter how much shade is in your landscape, the right flowers, plants, bushes and bulbs will grow in this area when given a chance.
________________________________________
Environmentally Safe Ways to Remove Weeds
There is a lot of concern about herbicides and what they are doing to our environment. Large amounts of chemicals leech into our groundwater polluting our water supply.
________________________________________
Wooden Greenhouses
An important addition to any British back garden, the greenhouse is firmly established in the British way of life. It's probably the inclement weather that drives the british gardener 'inside'.
________________________________________
Laying Out Your New Landscape
When planning your new landscape, the first place to start is by driving around your neighborhood and seeing what other people have done with their landscapes. Bring a sketch pad or digital camera to record things you like.
________________________________________
Spurce Up Your Garden With Decorative Birdhouses
Decorative Birdhouses are active garden ornamentation --the presence and movement of birds creates a fluid focal point for your garden. As such, placement is critical for you to earn maximum benefit from your birdhouses.
________________________________________
The Protea Family (Proteaceae)
The protea family (Proteaceae) includes a wide range of ground covers, trees and shrubs that often make superb garden plants. While some of the species are frost-tender, they are in all other respects remarkably resilient plants that often thrive in situations where others would rapidly succumb.
________________________________________
Plan for Winter Plantings
Part four in a seriesIt's hard to think about winter when our gardens are in full bloom and the vegetables are ripening on the vine! But we must keep winter in mind when we are planning our landscape. Afterall, we have to look at our landscape all year long, including winter.
________________________________________
Store Your Outdoor Furnishings to Make Them Last
In many parts of North America, the end of "porch season" has arrived. Whether you're clearing out for some oncoming bad weather, closing up the cottage for the season, beating the vandals on devil's night, or just retreating to your nest for the winter, you'll want to store away all of your outdoor items with maximum care.
________________________________________
Garden for Birds #3
Well, another week is passing us by.I want to thank everyone who writes me back.
________________________________________
Lawn Moles and Proper Lawn Care
Are your making mountains out of your molehills? Although lawn moles are underground creatures, the benefits they add to your garden are clearly visible and far outweigh the disadvantages.Of the six species of mole found in North America, the Eastern mole (or gray mole) is the most common.
________________________________________
Canopy Swings - Escape the Weather with One
Do you love to sit outdoors and swing for hours but have to cut your relaxing excursions short due to the intense sun or brief summer showers? Do you get tired of having to wipe down your outdoor furniture before you can actually sit in it and enjoy it without fear of soiling your clothes? If so, maybe you should think about getting a canopy swing or purchasing canopies for your existing swings.Canopy swings offer a haven of comfort on extremely hot and sunny days or cloudy days when brief showers threaten.
________________________________________
Butterfly House in the Flower Garden
Whenever you decide to look for a butterfly house for your flower garden, you first have to determine what it is you actually want. A search for butterfly houses will yield two different types.
________________________________________
The Care of Cattleya Orchids
Cattleya Care: a bit more in-depth.This month we are going to go into some detail about the care of cattleya orchids.
________________________________________
How To Find Cheap Flower Delivery In Your Area
As humans, we are always on the lookout for a deal. Deals on flower delivery are no exception.
________________________________________
Mowing the Lawn
This is more of a follow up on my original article posted yesterday. As I have now finally managed to buy a new lawn mower, with safetey and usability in mind, I have been chopping away at that lawn this morning.
________________________________________
How to Buy a Porch Swing
The Porch Swing is enjoying a surge in popularity thanks to the latest Home & Garden trend towards building "Garden Rooms". Patio Furniture Retailers have responded by flooding the market with so many options that making a choice can be a daunting task.
________________________________________
How to Grow Apples
The first thing you need to grow apples is a long-term commitment. Growing apples takes considerable time and quite a bit of work.
________________________________________
How to Grow Cucumbers
The versatile cucumber (cucumis sativus) is tasty pickled, in a salad, as a salad, in a sandwich, or just eaten raw. How to grow cucumbers depends largely in part on how you plan to eat them.
________________________________________
Monday, September 21, 2009
Tuberous Begonias
If you appreciate plants that have no hesitation in boldly stating their presence with huge, almost artificially perfect flowers, then tuberous begonias are for you. While some may find them rather too overstated, downright brazen even, if you like colour, and plenty of it, with subtlety an option rather than compulsory, then look no further.
Flowering from late spring, as the days exceed 13 hours long, until well into autumn when the foliage dies back, these tuberous-rooted perennials have been extensively hybridised and refined to the point where the larger-flowered forms are nothing short of spectacular. For those with greenhouses or a very mild winter climate there are even types that flower well into winter, if not right through the cooler months.
Description and classification and groups
Begonias are among those convenient plants where the proper name is also the common name. The genus is found in the tropics and subtropics, particularly in the Americas, and is made up of around 900 species with 130-odd in cultivation, from which many cultivars and hybrids have been developed. These garden forms have been divided into 8 main categories. They are:
1. Cane-like, which have narrow, upright stems with conspicuous leaf nodes and evergreen foliage.
2. Shrub-like, which are bushy plants with branching stems.
3. Thick-stemmed, which resemble the cane-like but with much heavier stems that sometimes form a trunk.
4. Semperflorens, which are the fibrous rooted types usually treated as summer-flowering bedding annuals.
5. Rhizomatous, which may be evergreen or deciduous and which are often grown as much for their foliage as for their flowers.
6. Rex-cultorum, which are the fancy-leaved Rex begonias that are usually grown as house plants.
7. Tuberous, which have thickened tuberous roots and which usually die back over winter or, in the case of the winter-flowering types, which may be dried off at some other time.
8. Trailing Scandent, which are pendulous, ever-blooming plants often with long internodes and which should not be confused with the trailing tuberous begonias.
So group seven it is, yet although quite a few begonia species have tuberous roots, when we talk of tuberous begonias we're generally referring to the fancy-flowered group of garden-raised plants known as Begonia × tuberhybrida. Developed mainly from South American species, they first appeared in Europe in 1867, just three years after the introduction of the most influential of the early parent species, Begonia pearcei. Since that time thousands of hybrids have been raised and we now have tuberous begonias in a wide range of sizes and styles of flower and growth habit.
There are small- medium- and large-flowered hybrids; they may have single, semi-double or fully rose- or camellia-like double flowers; they may be small and mound-forming, trailing or upright to nearly a metre tall. And while the flowers are spectacular, don't ignore the foliage. Because although unlike say the Rex begonias, tuberous begonias are never grown for their foliage alone, their velvety, deep green leaves add a rich luxuriance that is the perfect foil to the flowers, which would definitely be diminished without the contrast of the leaves.
Cultivation
So, tuberous begonias are beautiful. I don't need to tell you that, the pictures speak for themselves, but how do you get the best out of them? Well, as garden plants they're not for everyone and not for every location, though with careful selection and siting you may be surprised at just how well they grow outdoors in many parts of New Zealand.
Begonias have a preference for cool, moist conditions and a climate that doesn't suffer from extremes of summer heat or winter cold. They need bright light to flower well but should be out of direct sunlight, especially during the heat of the day, and they also need shelter from strong winds or the flowers may brown at the edges and the soft foliage may be torn or bent. Tuberous begonias flower best with humus-rich soil, plenty of moisture and regular feeding.
Given those requirements it's not surprising that many gardeners choose to cultivate tuberous begonias indoors, as conservatory, shadehouse or cool greenhouse plants. However, if you have a bright southerly facing position in your garden or a shaded spot facing north, then begonias will thrive outdoors too, particularly in areas that don't often experience drought in summer.
Strong sun and wind, especially hot dry winds, are the main enemies; light soil that dries out quickly doesn't help either. But in a lightly shaded, sheltered position with soil that has been thoroughly prepared with plenty of well-rotted compost tuberous begonias will flower from early summer to the first frosts. And all that you need do is to stake the tall growers to bamboo canes (specialist nurseries stock wire frames), remove any spent flowers, keep the soil moist and add a little liquid fertiliser every week.
If you find that the super-fancy large-flowered forms are simply not tough enough for your garden, don't give up. Instead try some of the smaller-flowered hybrids. The little Multiflora types, commonly known as Flamboyant Begonias, are very resilient. Grown as massed bedding or in clusters, they're most commonly seen with bright red flowers, which often almost hide the foliage, but also occur in orange and a somewhat weaker yellow-flowered form.
Nonstop begonias are crosses between the Multifloras and the larger flowered types. As you'd expect they're of intermediate height and vigour. They flower continuously, even in winter if kept indoors, and are available in a wide range of colours. Nonstops are F1 hybrids so there is no point in saving the seed and any seedpods should be removed to keep the plants flowering. Reiger begonias, developed from Begonia × hiemalis, are similar.
And if open beds don't seem to work, consider growing your begonias in pots so that you can find just the right place for them. The upright types flower and grow well but are rather brittle, necessitating staking. The trailing types, often Begonia boliviensis hybrids, have more flexible, pendulous stems and when grown in hanging baskets they are easy-care plants that make a great show. Trailing begonias usually do best in sphagnum-lined wire baskets rather than solid pots, their roots appreciating the cool moist sphagnum.
Disbudding and deadheading
Begonias have separate male and female flowers. Usually one large female flower is subtended by two smaller male flowers. Removing the male flowers before they mature will allow the showy female flowers to reach their full size and will also prevent the development of seedpods that could lessen the plant's vigour. Old flowers should be removed once past their best. They snap off easily and doing this not only encourages new blooms to form, it also helps prevent fungal diseases that could develop among the decaying petals.
Pests and diseases
Begonias are neither particularly susceptible to nor resistant to pests. Slugs and snail relish the young shoots and the mature foliage, various caterpillars may chew the foliage, rasping and sap-sucking creatures such as thrips, aphids and mealy bugs may be present, but with a little attention and routine care, pests can usually be stopped before they get out of control.
More of a problem are fungal diseases, especially soft rots, mildew and botrytis. Damaged stems can quickly become soft, watery and rotten and this may lead to the eventual collapse of the plant. Almost inevitably the foliage will develop mildew in late autumn - it's just part of the winter die-back process - but mildew can also occur during the growing season. Good ventilation goes a long way towards controlling the severity of fungal diseases, keeping the foliage and stems reasonably dry also helps, though spraying with a fungicide will probably be necessary too.
Winter care
As flower production lessens from mid-autumn, cut back on watering and feeding and allow your begonias to dry off. While the foliage should dry, brown and fall away without too many problems, do keep an eye open for any fungal diseases that could spread to the tubers.
Once the foliage has dried, the tubers may be lifted or removed from their pots for winter storage. This isn't always necessary in mild winter areas, but where hard frosts or prolonged wet conditions are likely it's a good idea. The tubers can be stored in barely moist sawdust or any other fairly dry, inert medium, such as damp, shredded newspaper. Replant them (concave side up) in spring as the new shoots appear. Cover the tubers with a few centimetres of soil, as they sprout roots from the tops too.
The exceptions to the process are the winter-flowering Begonia × hiemalis hybrids, which result from crossing Begonia × tuberhybrida with Begonia socotrana, a species from an Indian Ocean island off the caost of Yemen. Widely sold as Reiger or "blush" begonias, these plants start to flower from late summer and will remain in leaf and flower until spring. Obviously these plants, which are completely intolerant of frost, need a very mild, benign winter to grow outdoors. However, they are very adaptable to indoor cultivation and are a great choice for winter-flowering house plants that can spend the summer outdoors in the garden.
Propagation
There are several ways to propagate tuberous begonias, the method used varying with they type of plant.
Seed
Sow bought seed to produce F1 hybrids such as the Nonstops or to get a new crop of vigorous young plants.
Begonia seed is very fine, dust-like in fact. It's so fine that it doesn't usually come in seed packets, where it would be lost in the folds, but in glass phials that have to be snapped open before sowing. Pelleted seeds are much easier to handle, thought they are not always readily available.
The seed needs warmth and light to germinate. It should be sown in spring, uncovered, in heated trays. Keep the seed just moist until it germinates. The young seedlings grow quickly and are soon large enough to pot. When small they are sensitive to draughts and temperature fluctuations and should be kept under cover until spring is well settled into early summer.
Prepare your garden beds with high-humus compost and organic fertiliser and because the foliage will be tender, plant out when the weather is not too hot and sunny.
Division
Mature plants have large tubers that divide readily and division is a good way to quickly produce established, sturdy plants. Divide the tubers in spring when replanting. They slice easily with a sharp knife but because finding the growing 'eyes' can be difficult keep your divisions on the large side. To prevent fungal diseases, dust the cut surfaces with sulphur powder and allow them to dry before planting.
Cuttings
Most tuberous begonias will grow from cuttings and this is an especially good method of building up large stocks of the small-flowered Multiflora types for massed bedding. The fresh spring and early summer shoots make the best cuttings and will strike very quickly under mild humid conditions. You can continue to take cuttings well into summer but unless the new plants can develop reasonably sized tubers before winter they will probably not survive until the following spring.
Like many of the house plant begonias, Begonia × hiemalis is often raised from leaf cuttings. This involves removing a mature leaf, slicing across its veins and pinning the leaf down on moist soil. A warm humid environment, such as an enclosed propagation tray, is essential. Also, you should start in spring so that the young plants are well-established before winter.
Begonia displays
Public gardens often use tuberous begonias in their displays and this can one of the best ways to see a wide range of flower types.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
________________________________________
MORE RESOURCES:
RELATED ARTICLES
________________________________________
How To Check If Cut Flowers Are Fresh
Fresh flowers should feel crisp or firm. Before you buy, run your hand under the flower heads from stem to petal tip.
________________________________________
Tractors and Their History
I recently bought a small tractor for my garden, which prompted me to right this article.The tractor was a John Deere, GT235.
________________________________________
Garden Room Boundaries
The areas of your landscape can be divided into several sections and areas, which are also known as garden rooms. Garden rooms are spaces where you plant, grow, and display different ideas in gardening in various creative methods.
________________________________________
Storm Damage and Mature Tree Pruning
One winter evening I was working on the computer when the power went out. The freezing rain that had been forecast must have been the culprit.
________________________________________
Tranquility in Your Own Back Yard
A garden fountain can add beauty and serenity to you yard or garden. It's long been known that running water can aid in relaxation.
________________________________________
Starting a Shade Garden...
The shade garden can be exploding with color and texture. No matter how much shade is in your landscape, the right flowers, plants, bushes and bulbs will grow in this area when given a chance.
________________________________________
Gardening with Bamboo
Myths and factsA misconception about bamboo is that they spread like wildfire. This is not entirely true as only a some species of bamboo will be invasive.
________________________________________
Fish Health in Hot Summer Heat
Summer is over, but for many of us - the heat remains.Here a couple of things to do to keep your fish healthyand your pond clear going into winter.
________________________________________
Sleeping Beauties: Porches For Dreaming
There's something magical about sleeping outside, drinking in the night sounds of crickets, frogs and wind chimes, watching fireflies and stars, and feeling the cool night breeze. You'll find children giggling long past their bedtime from sheer excitement.
________________________________________
Pest Control Tips for Maintaining Your Greenhouse
Greenhouses provide a warm, humid atmosphere and are home to a variety of different plants and flowers which is why they are a perfect target for insects. There are numerous types of insects which will want to live in your greenhouse and feed off of the wonderful plants and flowers which you have put so much time and effort into maintaining.
________________________________________
y, Fun Garden Plants
I have a love for funky, fun and unique garden plants. Here's one to try.
________________________________________
Maintaining Oxygen Levels in Fish and KOI Ponds
Severe environmental stressors are the most frequent causes of sudden fish death in garden ponds or other fish habitats, and the lack of oxygen in the water is the number 1 stressor of all.Two major factors contributing to fish-pond oxygen loss concern blooming algae.
________________________________________
Pond Filter
A pond filter is one of the most important components for your pond, without one your pond water would get really mucky. The kind you need depends on its size and whether or not you have any fish.
________________________________________
Are My Grapes Ready to Harvest?
This is the time of the year that I keep hearing the question "When do I harvest my grapes?" Or sometimes the question is phrased "Are my grapes ripe yet?" And then there's the "Are they ready yet?"Yes, it's that time of the year when grapes are turning color and homeowners are thinking about when their grapes will be harvested. But many homeowners think that when the color turns, the grapes are ready to eat.
________________________________________
Growing Orchids as House Plants
One of the long standing myths that I still hear is that orchid house plants are difficult and finicky to grow. Well, plain and simple, the answer is No.
________________________________________
Bird Baths in Your Yard
HOOOOOOOOOOOEEEEEEEEEHas summer come in with a bang!Heat waves everywhere.And where is the rain?Yolanda is at camp this week.
________________________________________
Roses - Creating Beautiful Cut Roses
Many gardeners like to enjoy their roses twice - first in the garden, then indoors as cut flowers. By choosing the right roses, cutting them at the proper time of day, and conditioning them after cutting, you can enjoy your cut roses for the longest possible time - up to five days or more after cutting.
________________________________________
Preliminary Considerations Before Building Your Own Backyard Garden Pond
This article is geared towards the beginner water gardener, who is comtemplating the installation of his/her first garden pond. The key to a successful do-it-yourself project is to gather as much relevant information that you can.
________________________________________
How to Create a Wildflower Garden
In today's gardens often populated by geraniums, roses, and zinnias, wildflowers can provide a simple and graceful flair. Almost any garden or landscape can be beautified by their presence.
________________________________________
Metal Outdoor Furniture - Explained
Mention metal patio furniture and you probably think of the light, fly-away aluminium loungers of your youth or that half-ton cast iron table and chair set on your neighbour's lawn.But metal outdoor furniture has come a long way.
________________________________________
Flowering from late spring, as the days exceed 13 hours long, until well into autumn when the foliage dies back, these tuberous-rooted perennials have been extensively hybridised and refined to the point where the larger-flowered forms are nothing short of spectacular. For those with greenhouses or a very mild winter climate there are even types that flower well into winter, if not right through the cooler months.
Description and classification and groups
Begonias are among those convenient plants where the proper name is also the common name. The genus is found in the tropics and subtropics, particularly in the Americas, and is made up of around 900 species with 130-odd in cultivation, from which many cultivars and hybrids have been developed. These garden forms have been divided into 8 main categories. They are:
1. Cane-like, which have narrow, upright stems with conspicuous leaf nodes and evergreen foliage.
2. Shrub-like, which are bushy plants with branching stems.
3. Thick-stemmed, which resemble the cane-like but with much heavier stems that sometimes form a trunk.
4. Semperflorens, which are the fibrous rooted types usually treated as summer-flowering bedding annuals.
5. Rhizomatous, which may be evergreen or deciduous and which are often grown as much for their foliage as for their flowers.
6. Rex-cultorum, which are the fancy-leaved Rex begonias that are usually grown as house plants.
7. Tuberous, which have thickened tuberous roots and which usually die back over winter or, in the case of the winter-flowering types, which may be dried off at some other time.
8. Trailing Scandent, which are pendulous, ever-blooming plants often with long internodes and which should not be confused with the trailing tuberous begonias.
So group seven it is, yet although quite a few begonia species have tuberous roots, when we talk of tuberous begonias we're generally referring to the fancy-flowered group of garden-raised plants known as Begonia × tuberhybrida. Developed mainly from South American species, they first appeared in Europe in 1867, just three years after the introduction of the most influential of the early parent species, Begonia pearcei. Since that time thousands of hybrids have been raised and we now have tuberous begonias in a wide range of sizes and styles of flower and growth habit.
There are small- medium- and large-flowered hybrids; they may have single, semi-double or fully rose- or camellia-like double flowers; they may be small and mound-forming, trailing or upright to nearly a metre tall. And while the flowers are spectacular, don't ignore the foliage. Because although unlike say the Rex begonias, tuberous begonias are never grown for their foliage alone, their velvety, deep green leaves add a rich luxuriance that is the perfect foil to the flowers, which would definitely be diminished without the contrast of the leaves.
Cultivation
So, tuberous begonias are beautiful. I don't need to tell you that, the pictures speak for themselves, but how do you get the best out of them? Well, as garden plants they're not for everyone and not for every location, though with careful selection and siting you may be surprised at just how well they grow outdoors in many parts of New Zealand.
Begonias have a preference for cool, moist conditions and a climate that doesn't suffer from extremes of summer heat or winter cold. They need bright light to flower well but should be out of direct sunlight, especially during the heat of the day, and they also need shelter from strong winds or the flowers may brown at the edges and the soft foliage may be torn or bent. Tuberous begonias flower best with humus-rich soil, plenty of moisture and regular feeding.
Given those requirements it's not surprising that many gardeners choose to cultivate tuberous begonias indoors, as conservatory, shadehouse or cool greenhouse plants. However, if you have a bright southerly facing position in your garden or a shaded spot facing north, then begonias will thrive outdoors too, particularly in areas that don't often experience drought in summer.
Strong sun and wind, especially hot dry winds, are the main enemies; light soil that dries out quickly doesn't help either. But in a lightly shaded, sheltered position with soil that has been thoroughly prepared with plenty of well-rotted compost tuberous begonias will flower from early summer to the first frosts. And all that you need do is to stake the tall growers to bamboo canes (specialist nurseries stock wire frames), remove any spent flowers, keep the soil moist and add a little liquid fertiliser every week.
If you find that the super-fancy large-flowered forms are simply not tough enough for your garden, don't give up. Instead try some of the smaller-flowered hybrids. The little Multiflora types, commonly known as Flamboyant Begonias, are very resilient. Grown as massed bedding or in clusters, they're most commonly seen with bright red flowers, which often almost hide the foliage, but also occur in orange and a somewhat weaker yellow-flowered form.
Nonstop begonias are crosses between the Multifloras and the larger flowered types. As you'd expect they're of intermediate height and vigour. They flower continuously, even in winter if kept indoors, and are available in a wide range of colours. Nonstops are F1 hybrids so there is no point in saving the seed and any seedpods should be removed to keep the plants flowering. Reiger begonias, developed from Begonia × hiemalis, are similar.
And if open beds don't seem to work, consider growing your begonias in pots so that you can find just the right place for them. The upright types flower and grow well but are rather brittle, necessitating staking. The trailing types, often Begonia boliviensis hybrids, have more flexible, pendulous stems and when grown in hanging baskets they are easy-care plants that make a great show. Trailing begonias usually do best in sphagnum-lined wire baskets rather than solid pots, their roots appreciating the cool moist sphagnum.
Disbudding and deadheading
Begonias have separate male and female flowers. Usually one large female flower is subtended by two smaller male flowers. Removing the male flowers before they mature will allow the showy female flowers to reach their full size and will also prevent the development of seedpods that could lessen the plant's vigour. Old flowers should be removed once past their best. They snap off easily and doing this not only encourages new blooms to form, it also helps prevent fungal diseases that could develop among the decaying petals.
Pests and diseases
Begonias are neither particularly susceptible to nor resistant to pests. Slugs and snail relish the young shoots and the mature foliage, various caterpillars may chew the foliage, rasping and sap-sucking creatures such as thrips, aphids and mealy bugs may be present, but with a little attention and routine care, pests can usually be stopped before they get out of control.
More of a problem are fungal diseases, especially soft rots, mildew and botrytis. Damaged stems can quickly become soft, watery and rotten and this may lead to the eventual collapse of the plant. Almost inevitably the foliage will develop mildew in late autumn - it's just part of the winter die-back process - but mildew can also occur during the growing season. Good ventilation goes a long way towards controlling the severity of fungal diseases, keeping the foliage and stems reasonably dry also helps, though spraying with a fungicide will probably be necessary too.
Winter care
As flower production lessens from mid-autumn, cut back on watering and feeding and allow your begonias to dry off. While the foliage should dry, brown and fall away without too many problems, do keep an eye open for any fungal diseases that could spread to the tubers.
Once the foliage has dried, the tubers may be lifted or removed from their pots for winter storage. This isn't always necessary in mild winter areas, but where hard frosts or prolonged wet conditions are likely it's a good idea. The tubers can be stored in barely moist sawdust or any other fairly dry, inert medium, such as damp, shredded newspaper. Replant them (concave side up) in spring as the new shoots appear. Cover the tubers with a few centimetres of soil, as they sprout roots from the tops too.
The exceptions to the process are the winter-flowering Begonia × hiemalis hybrids, which result from crossing Begonia × tuberhybrida with Begonia socotrana, a species from an Indian Ocean island off the caost of Yemen. Widely sold as Reiger or "blush" begonias, these plants start to flower from late summer and will remain in leaf and flower until spring. Obviously these plants, which are completely intolerant of frost, need a very mild, benign winter to grow outdoors. However, they are very adaptable to indoor cultivation and are a great choice for winter-flowering house plants that can spend the summer outdoors in the garden.
Propagation
There are several ways to propagate tuberous begonias, the method used varying with they type of plant.
Seed
Sow bought seed to produce F1 hybrids such as the Nonstops or to get a new crop of vigorous young plants.
Begonia seed is very fine, dust-like in fact. It's so fine that it doesn't usually come in seed packets, where it would be lost in the folds, but in glass phials that have to be snapped open before sowing. Pelleted seeds are much easier to handle, thought they are not always readily available.
The seed needs warmth and light to germinate. It should be sown in spring, uncovered, in heated trays. Keep the seed just moist until it germinates. The young seedlings grow quickly and are soon large enough to pot. When small they are sensitive to draughts and temperature fluctuations and should be kept under cover until spring is well settled into early summer.
Prepare your garden beds with high-humus compost and organic fertiliser and because the foliage will be tender, plant out when the weather is not too hot and sunny.
Division
Mature plants have large tubers that divide readily and division is a good way to quickly produce established, sturdy plants. Divide the tubers in spring when replanting. They slice easily with a sharp knife but because finding the growing 'eyes' can be difficult keep your divisions on the large side. To prevent fungal diseases, dust the cut surfaces with sulphur powder and allow them to dry before planting.
Cuttings
Most tuberous begonias will grow from cuttings and this is an especially good method of building up large stocks of the small-flowered Multiflora types for massed bedding. The fresh spring and early summer shoots make the best cuttings and will strike very quickly under mild humid conditions. You can continue to take cuttings well into summer but unless the new plants can develop reasonably sized tubers before winter they will probably not survive until the following spring.
Like many of the house plant begonias, Begonia × hiemalis is often raised from leaf cuttings. This involves removing a mature leaf, slicing across its veins and pinning the leaf down on moist soil. A warm humid environment, such as an enclosed propagation tray, is essential. Also, you should start in spring so that the young plants are well-established before winter.
Begonia displays
Public gardens often use tuberous begonias in their displays and this can one of the best ways to see a wide range of flower types.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
________________________________________
MORE RESOURCES:
RELATED ARTICLES
________________________________________
How To Check If Cut Flowers Are Fresh
Fresh flowers should feel crisp or firm. Before you buy, run your hand under the flower heads from stem to petal tip.
________________________________________
Tractors and Their History
I recently bought a small tractor for my garden, which prompted me to right this article.The tractor was a John Deere, GT235.
________________________________________
Garden Room Boundaries
The areas of your landscape can be divided into several sections and areas, which are also known as garden rooms. Garden rooms are spaces where you plant, grow, and display different ideas in gardening in various creative methods.
________________________________________
Storm Damage and Mature Tree Pruning
One winter evening I was working on the computer when the power went out. The freezing rain that had been forecast must have been the culprit.
________________________________________
Tranquility in Your Own Back Yard
A garden fountain can add beauty and serenity to you yard or garden. It's long been known that running water can aid in relaxation.
________________________________________
Starting a Shade Garden...
The shade garden can be exploding with color and texture. No matter how much shade is in your landscape, the right flowers, plants, bushes and bulbs will grow in this area when given a chance.
________________________________________
Gardening with Bamboo
Myths and factsA misconception about bamboo is that they spread like wildfire. This is not entirely true as only a some species of bamboo will be invasive.
________________________________________
Fish Health in Hot Summer Heat
Summer is over, but for many of us - the heat remains.Here a couple of things to do to keep your fish healthyand your pond clear going into winter.
________________________________________
Sleeping Beauties: Porches For Dreaming
There's something magical about sleeping outside, drinking in the night sounds of crickets, frogs and wind chimes, watching fireflies and stars, and feeling the cool night breeze. You'll find children giggling long past their bedtime from sheer excitement.
________________________________________
Pest Control Tips for Maintaining Your Greenhouse
Greenhouses provide a warm, humid atmosphere and are home to a variety of different plants and flowers which is why they are a perfect target for insects. There are numerous types of insects which will want to live in your greenhouse and feed off of the wonderful plants and flowers which you have put so much time and effort into maintaining.
________________________________________
y, Fun Garden Plants
I have a love for funky, fun and unique garden plants. Here's one to try.
________________________________________
Maintaining Oxygen Levels in Fish and KOI Ponds
Severe environmental stressors are the most frequent causes of sudden fish death in garden ponds or other fish habitats, and the lack of oxygen in the water is the number 1 stressor of all.Two major factors contributing to fish-pond oxygen loss concern blooming algae.
________________________________________
Pond Filter
A pond filter is one of the most important components for your pond, without one your pond water would get really mucky. The kind you need depends on its size and whether or not you have any fish.
________________________________________
Are My Grapes Ready to Harvest?
This is the time of the year that I keep hearing the question "When do I harvest my grapes?" Or sometimes the question is phrased "Are my grapes ripe yet?" And then there's the "Are they ready yet?"Yes, it's that time of the year when grapes are turning color and homeowners are thinking about when their grapes will be harvested. But many homeowners think that when the color turns, the grapes are ready to eat.
________________________________________
Growing Orchids as House Plants
One of the long standing myths that I still hear is that orchid house plants are difficult and finicky to grow. Well, plain and simple, the answer is No.
________________________________________
Bird Baths in Your Yard
HOOOOOOOOOOOEEEEEEEEEHas summer come in with a bang!Heat waves everywhere.And where is the rain?Yolanda is at camp this week.
________________________________________
Roses - Creating Beautiful Cut Roses
Many gardeners like to enjoy their roses twice - first in the garden, then indoors as cut flowers. By choosing the right roses, cutting them at the proper time of day, and conditioning them after cutting, you can enjoy your cut roses for the longest possible time - up to five days or more after cutting.
________________________________________
Preliminary Considerations Before Building Your Own Backyard Garden Pond
This article is geared towards the beginner water gardener, who is comtemplating the installation of his/her first garden pond. The key to a successful do-it-yourself project is to gather as much relevant information that you can.
________________________________________
How to Create a Wildflower Garden
In today's gardens often populated by geraniums, roses, and zinnias, wildflowers can provide a simple and graceful flair. Almost any garden or landscape can be beautified by their presence.
________________________________________
Metal Outdoor Furniture - Explained
Mention metal patio furniture and you probably think of the light, fly-away aluminium loungers of your youth or that half-ton cast iron table and chair set on your neighbour's lawn.But metal outdoor furniture has come a long way.
________________________________________
Gallica Roses
Very soon stocks of new season's roses will be arriving in the garden centres, if they're not already there. Indeed, to be sure of getting the most sought after varieties it may have been necessary to put an order in some time ago. However, in their rush for the new, those who are slaves to fashion often overlook gems, leaving some of the best tried and true plants for those prepared to simply wait and see what is available.
Gallica roses are a case in point. While the popularity of Old Roses waxes and wanes as each new generation discovers them and then seeks something new, the best of them carry on regardless.
Rosa gallica, also known as the French Rose or Provins Rose, is a species that grows wild from southern and central Europe to the Caucasus. Because it readily produces sports, has a tendency towards double flowers, and may have hybridised naturally with other species, it is likely that the earliest European garden roses were forms of Rosa gallica.
The earliest recognisable Gallica still grown is 'Officinalis', the Apothecary's Rose. It is a deep pink semi-double thought to have been introduced into France from the Middle East by returning 13th century crusaders. It has even been suggested that 'Officinalis' was the first cultivated rose, though that is impossible to prove. A similar rose was used medicinally and in perfume manufacture in Charlemagne's time, but it can't be traced back beyond around 1200 with any certainty. Nevertheless, 'Officinalis' can be seen in many medieval manuscripts, paintings, and stained glass windows, and while deep pink rather than red, it earned fame in the War of the Roses as the Red Rose of Lancaster. (The White Rose of York was Rosa × alba.)
'Rosa Mundi' (syn. 'Versicolor'), which probably dates from the late 16th century, is a very popular sport of 'Officinalis'. It has striped and sectored bicolor white and deep pink flowers, and is thought to have been named after Rosamund, a mistress of Henry II. It may date back to the 13th century or even earlier but can't be traced beyond 1580 with certainty.
Gallicas were at the height of their popularity from the 18th to the mid-19th centuries, and it is from that period that most of today's plants date. Early nurseries kept few records but it is likely that by the early 19th century there were well over 1000 varieties of gallica in cultivation, possibly up to 3000. It is therefore not surprising that several other recognised groups, such as the Damask Roses, have Rosa gallica in their parentage.
Their flowers, which are abundant and often heavily scented, tend toward the pink, red and purple shades. White gallicas are also available and many of the darker flowered types are flecked or otherwise marked with white or pale pink. The flowers appear only in spring and early summer, with perhaps the occasional late bloom, though vivid hips often follow the flowers, providing colour well into autumn.
The fleeting beauty of the flowers and the historical connections is certainly why Gallicas tend to be regarded as the most 'romantic' of all the roses. It's not hard to see why. Their beautiful, rather formal shapes with an air of elegance, their textures and colours, so often reminiscent of faded purple velvet, and their fragrance combine to create roses of which memories are made.
The very name Apothecary's Rose conjures up images of alchemy, love potions and the like. Associations with the French aristocracy also enhance the gallica's romantic appeal. Marie-Antoinette had made in 1770 a bed of 'Officinalis' petals and the Empress Josephine so adored Gallicas that her rose gardens at Malmaison were a virtual shrine to the type.
Many nurseries, especially rose specialists, stock a good range of gallicas and as you might expect, those that have survived long enough to still be in production in the 21st century tend to be sturdy, easily grown plants.
In addition to 'Rosa Mundi' and 'Officinalis' look out for 'Charles de Mills' (double, velvety crimson) 'Cardinal de Richelieu' (double, clustered dark purple red flowers), 'Hippolyte' (double, purple, many small flowers), 'Belle de Crécy', 'Tuscany Superb' (double, dark purple-red, very fragrant), 'Duchesse de Buccleugh' (double, deep pink, late), 'Duchesse de Montebello' (double, soft pink), 'Complicata' (single, bright mid-pink, fragrant), 'Nannette' (double, purple-red), 'Anaïs Ségales' (double, purple-pink, very fragrant), 'Ipsilanté' (double, mauve-pink) and 'Gloire de France' (double, purple-pink fading to pale pink edges).
Sure, you could wait until next year and check out the local botanic gardens before making a selection, but take my word for it, gallicas are beautiful. Why not start your own private Malmaison now?
Cultivation tips
Gallicas are very frost hardy and tend to be fairly small bushes with light or bright green that is usually quite lush. They can be bought budded or may be grown on their own roots. Own root plants will produce suckers that help to thicken up the bush and will sometimes even allow them to be grown as a hedge. Removing rooted suckers is an easy way to start new plants, which is probably why Gallicas were such a suitable subject for medieval plant propagators. Summer softwood cuttings under mist are reliable and winter hardwood cuttings outdoors strike quite well.
Their compact habit is easily maintained by light overall trimming and thinning, which can be done in winter or, if keeping the hips is not important, as soon as flowering is finished. You can even trim and shape in summer and winter if necessary. Very old bushes on their own roots may be cut back almost to ground level to encourage vigorous new growth. Gallicas are bristly rather than really thorny, which makes pruning a fairly pain-free experience.
Naturally, you need to keep an eye open for all the traditional pests and diseases of roses, though you needn't expect more trouble with Gallicas than any other roses. Just don't believe those comments you may read that suggest that they are particularly pest- or disease-resistant.
Did you know?
The Greeks and Romans cultivated Rosa gallica, though apart for the odd sport it is unlikely that they grew anything greatly different from the wild form. So should you feel the need to have rose petals strewn in your path in the manner of a Roman emperor, they should be those of Rosa gallica.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
________________________________________
MORE RESOURCES:
RELATED ARTICLES
________________________________________
Teak Umbrella : Add the Final Touch to Your Patio
Okay, so you have agonized for weeks and finally went out and purchased that gorgeous teak patio table that you have had your eye on for quite a while. And now that it is nestled away in that perfect spot on your deck, you realize that the only thing that would make you love your teak table even more is the addition of an umbrella.
________________________________________
Laying Out Your Landscape Part Two
Part Two in a SeriesOnce you have your landscape design on paper, now it's time to transfer it to the actual location where you will be planting your plants. You will need a couple of tools in order to accomplish this.
________________________________________
Agio Patio Furniture
The fresh air of the early spring solstice and the celebration song of the earth call us to leave the safety and comfort of our indoor winter haven. We venture forth to explore the new life that is springing up all around us, and habitually look for a place to relax and absorb the sounds and smells swirling through the air.
________________________________________
A Garden Pond in Your Landscape - Want Water in Your Yard?
A Garden Pond in your Landscape - Want Water in your Yard?Thought about adding a garden pond? Should you?Here are the pros and cons to consider:On the pro side:A garden pond adds an entirely new dimension to your garden!Where before the living things were limited to plant life,the pond will have fish (must does not need to).The water will attract birds and other animals which makefor wonderful watching and viewing.
________________________________________
Starting Seedlings Indoors
Unless you have access to a greenhouse, or something like it, those living in cooler climates will have to start seedlings indoors if they are to take full advantage of their growing season.Here are some gardening tips to starting seedlings indoors.
________________________________________
Wooden Garden Furniture
Wooden Garden Furniture can be the ideal solution to various seating problems in your garden. You can add new seating areas to your garden by perhaps turning a path into a destination for a sit down or consider adding a few pieces of wooden garden furniture to less frequented corners of the garden.
________________________________________
Basil: The King of Herbs
One of the most popular herbs is Ocimum basilicum commonly called sweet basil. Often called the 'king of herbs,' basil can be grown indoors or out.
________________________________________
Simple Lawnmower Maintenance
Do you have trouble starting your lawnmower up in the spring? Before deciding to take your lawnmower in for repair, try these few simple suggestions. After completing them most of the time your lawnmower will fire up and run like a champ.
________________________________________
How to Care for Your Outdoor Water Fountains
Garden lovers around the world love putting fountains among their flowers, plants, bushes and shrubs. And with the Christmas season upon us in the U.
________________________________________
Nontoxic Pest Control for Your Home and Garden
Pesticides are toxic and, while often effective against pests, can be dangerous for your family and pets. Outdoors, sprayed pesticides might drift on a breeze and dust your vegetable garden or your neighbor's yard.
________________________________________
8 Simple Tips to Keep Your Lawn Mower Running
1. If you have a non-electric mower which runs on petrol or gas have a look in the instruction manual to find out how to check and change the oil.
________________________________________
A Teak Chair - Create a Livable Outdoor Space with One
When creating a comfortable, usable outdoor space, nothing could me more inviting and warm than furnishing that space with natural products such as wood. Often, though, there are problems associated with wood furnishings.
________________________________________
Vegetable Growing for Beginners
If you have never grown vegetables before the first thing that you need to decide is where to plant them in your garden. Most vegetables need 6-8 hours of sunlight a day although greens can manage with less.
________________________________________
With So Many Choices For Patio Furniture, Finding The Perfect Set To Complement Your Yard Is Easy
There is nothing more relaxing than kicking back with a cold drink on a hot summer day. Or unwinding with a big backyard barbeque with all of your neighbors.
________________________________________
Learn All About Feng Shui Money Trees
A feng shui money tree is an indoor plant used in order to attract prosperity and wealth into any space. The feng shui money tree's botanical name is Pachira, and its care requires the average sun light and watering that any other indoor plant would need.
________________________________________
How To Brighten Up Your Home With These Flower Arrangement Ideas
A beautiful flower arrangement piece can become the focal point of the room you choose to decorate. It's truly fascinating how we can combine different flowers to create a mesmerizing bouquet.
________________________________________
How To Prevent Damping Off
Damping off is the single term used to describeunderground, soil line, or crown rots of seedlings due tounknown causes. The term actually covers several soil bornediseases of plants and seed borne fungi.
________________________________________
Teak Patio Table - Why You Need One
Do you love to cook outdoors but end up having to dine on makeshift outdoor furniture or maybe even inside because you simply do not have the furniture to properly entertain in your yard, deck or patio? Would you love to find the perfect patio table or set to transform your empty space to an elegant outdoor dining room? If so, maybe you should think about enhancing your outdoor space with a teak patio table.Teak patio tables are crafted using the finest Javanese teak and come in a wide range of styles that can be easily matched with your personality, décor and budget.
________________________________________
Wildflower Seeds - Ten Reasons Why You Should Plant...
Native wildflowers are those that were growing naturally in the landscape before the first settlers arrived from Europe. Ever since that time more and more plants have been introduced from around the world with very mixed results.
________________________________________
Gift Ideas for Bird Lovers
Some of the best gifts you can give to a bird lover are those that have to do with birds! :)Here are a few favorites of all bird lovers:* Bird HousesYou can find a wide variety of bird house designs and styles. Usually anyone that really loves birds also really loves different types of bird houses too.
________________________________________
Gallica roses are a case in point. While the popularity of Old Roses waxes and wanes as each new generation discovers them and then seeks something new, the best of them carry on regardless.
Rosa gallica, also known as the French Rose or Provins Rose, is a species that grows wild from southern and central Europe to the Caucasus. Because it readily produces sports, has a tendency towards double flowers, and may have hybridised naturally with other species, it is likely that the earliest European garden roses were forms of Rosa gallica.
The earliest recognisable Gallica still grown is 'Officinalis', the Apothecary's Rose. It is a deep pink semi-double thought to have been introduced into France from the Middle East by returning 13th century crusaders. It has even been suggested that 'Officinalis' was the first cultivated rose, though that is impossible to prove. A similar rose was used medicinally and in perfume manufacture in Charlemagne's time, but it can't be traced back beyond around 1200 with any certainty. Nevertheless, 'Officinalis' can be seen in many medieval manuscripts, paintings, and stained glass windows, and while deep pink rather than red, it earned fame in the War of the Roses as the Red Rose of Lancaster. (The White Rose of York was Rosa × alba.)
'Rosa Mundi' (syn. 'Versicolor'), which probably dates from the late 16th century, is a very popular sport of 'Officinalis'. It has striped and sectored bicolor white and deep pink flowers, and is thought to have been named after Rosamund, a mistress of Henry II. It may date back to the 13th century or even earlier but can't be traced beyond 1580 with certainty.
Gallicas were at the height of their popularity from the 18th to the mid-19th centuries, and it is from that period that most of today's plants date. Early nurseries kept few records but it is likely that by the early 19th century there were well over 1000 varieties of gallica in cultivation, possibly up to 3000. It is therefore not surprising that several other recognised groups, such as the Damask Roses, have Rosa gallica in their parentage.
Their flowers, which are abundant and often heavily scented, tend toward the pink, red and purple shades. White gallicas are also available and many of the darker flowered types are flecked or otherwise marked with white or pale pink. The flowers appear only in spring and early summer, with perhaps the occasional late bloom, though vivid hips often follow the flowers, providing colour well into autumn.
The fleeting beauty of the flowers and the historical connections is certainly why Gallicas tend to be regarded as the most 'romantic' of all the roses. It's not hard to see why. Their beautiful, rather formal shapes with an air of elegance, their textures and colours, so often reminiscent of faded purple velvet, and their fragrance combine to create roses of which memories are made.
The very name Apothecary's Rose conjures up images of alchemy, love potions and the like. Associations with the French aristocracy also enhance the gallica's romantic appeal. Marie-Antoinette had made in 1770 a bed of 'Officinalis' petals and the Empress Josephine so adored Gallicas that her rose gardens at Malmaison were a virtual shrine to the type.
Many nurseries, especially rose specialists, stock a good range of gallicas and as you might expect, those that have survived long enough to still be in production in the 21st century tend to be sturdy, easily grown plants.
In addition to 'Rosa Mundi' and 'Officinalis' look out for 'Charles de Mills' (double, velvety crimson) 'Cardinal de Richelieu' (double, clustered dark purple red flowers), 'Hippolyte' (double, purple, many small flowers), 'Belle de Crécy', 'Tuscany Superb' (double, dark purple-red, very fragrant), 'Duchesse de Buccleugh' (double, deep pink, late), 'Duchesse de Montebello' (double, soft pink), 'Complicata' (single, bright mid-pink, fragrant), 'Nannette' (double, purple-red), 'Anaïs Ségales' (double, purple-pink, very fragrant), 'Ipsilanté' (double, mauve-pink) and 'Gloire de France' (double, purple-pink fading to pale pink edges).
Sure, you could wait until next year and check out the local botanic gardens before making a selection, but take my word for it, gallicas are beautiful. Why not start your own private Malmaison now?
Cultivation tips
Gallicas are very frost hardy and tend to be fairly small bushes with light or bright green that is usually quite lush. They can be bought budded or may be grown on their own roots. Own root plants will produce suckers that help to thicken up the bush and will sometimes even allow them to be grown as a hedge. Removing rooted suckers is an easy way to start new plants, which is probably why Gallicas were such a suitable subject for medieval plant propagators. Summer softwood cuttings under mist are reliable and winter hardwood cuttings outdoors strike quite well.
Their compact habit is easily maintained by light overall trimming and thinning, which can be done in winter or, if keeping the hips is not important, as soon as flowering is finished. You can even trim and shape in summer and winter if necessary. Very old bushes on their own roots may be cut back almost to ground level to encourage vigorous new growth. Gallicas are bristly rather than really thorny, which makes pruning a fairly pain-free experience.
Naturally, you need to keep an eye open for all the traditional pests and diseases of roses, though you needn't expect more trouble with Gallicas than any other roses. Just don't believe those comments you may read that suggest that they are particularly pest- or disease-resistant.
Did you know?
The Greeks and Romans cultivated Rosa gallica, though apart for the odd sport it is unlikely that they grew anything greatly different from the wild form. So should you feel the need to have rose petals strewn in your path in the manner of a Roman emperor, they should be those of Rosa gallica.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
________________________________________
MORE RESOURCES:
RELATED ARTICLES
________________________________________
Teak Umbrella : Add the Final Touch to Your Patio
Okay, so you have agonized for weeks and finally went out and purchased that gorgeous teak patio table that you have had your eye on for quite a while. And now that it is nestled away in that perfect spot on your deck, you realize that the only thing that would make you love your teak table even more is the addition of an umbrella.
________________________________________
Laying Out Your Landscape Part Two
Part Two in a SeriesOnce you have your landscape design on paper, now it's time to transfer it to the actual location where you will be planting your plants. You will need a couple of tools in order to accomplish this.
________________________________________
Agio Patio Furniture
The fresh air of the early spring solstice and the celebration song of the earth call us to leave the safety and comfort of our indoor winter haven. We venture forth to explore the new life that is springing up all around us, and habitually look for a place to relax and absorb the sounds and smells swirling through the air.
________________________________________
A Garden Pond in Your Landscape - Want Water in Your Yard?
A Garden Pond in your Landscape - Want Water in your Yard?Thought about adding a garden pond? Should you?Here are the pros and cons to consider:On the pro side:A garden pond adds an entirely new dimension to your garden!Where before the living things were limited to plant life,the pond will have fish (must does not need to).The water will attract birds and other animals which makefor wonderful watching and viewing.
________________________________________
Starting Seedlings Indoors
Unless you have access to a greenhouse, or something like it, those living in cooler climates will have to start seedlings indoors if they are to take full advantage of their growing season.Here are some gardening tips to starting seedlings indoors.
________________________________________
Wooden Garden Furniture
Wooden Garden Furniture can be the ideal solution to various seating problems in your garden. You can add new seating areas to your garden by perhaps turning a path into a destination for a sit down or consider adding a few pieces of wooden garden furniture to less frequented corners of the garden.
________________________________________
Basil: The King of Herbs
One of the most popular herbs is Ocimum basilicum commonly called sweet basil. Often called the 'king of herbs,' basil can be grown indoors or out.
________________________________________
Simple Lawnmower Maintenance
Do you have trouble starting your lawnmower up in the spring? Before deciding to take your lawnmower in for repair, try these few simple suggestions. After completing them most of the time your lawnmower will fire up and run like a champ.
________________________________________
How to Care for Your Outdoor Water Fountains
Garden lovers around the world love putting fountains among their flowers, plants, bushes and shrubs. And with the Christmas season upon us in the U.
________________________________________
Nontoxic Pest Control for Your Home and Garden
Pesticides are toxic and, while often effective against pests, can be dangerous for your family and pets. Outdoors, sprayed pesticides might drift on a breeze and dust your vegetable garden or your neighbor's yard.
________________________________________
8 Simple Tips to Keep Your Lawn Mower Running
1. If you have a non-electric mower which runs on petrol or gas have a look in the instruction manual to find out how to check and change the oil.
________________________________________
A Teak Chair - Create a Livable Outdoor Space with One
When creating a comfortable, usable outdoor space, nothing could me more inviting and warm than furnishing that space with natural products such as wood. Often, though, there are problems associated with wood furnishings.
________________________________________
Vegetable Growing for Beginners
If you have never grown vegetables before the first thing that you need to decide is where to plant them in your garden. Most vegetables need 6-8 hours of sunlight a day although greens can manage with less.
________________________________________
With So Many Choices For Patio Furniture, Finding The Perfect Set To Complement Your Yard Is Easy
There is nothing more relaxing than kicking back with a cold drink on a hot summer day. Or unwinding with a big backyard barbeque with all of your neighbors.
________________________________________
Learn All About Feng Shui Money Trees
A feng shui money tree is an indoor plant used in order to attract prosperity and wealth into any space. The feng shui money tree's botanical name is Pachira, and its care requires the average sun light and watering that any other indoor plant would need.
________________________________________
How To Brighten Up Your Home With These Flower Arrangement Ideas
A beautiful flower arrangement piece can become the focal point of the room you choose to decorate. It's truly fascinating how we can combine different flowers to create a mesmerizing bouquet.
________________________________________
How To Prevent Damping Off
Damping off is the single term used to describeunderground, soil line, or crown rots of seedlings due tounknown causes. The term actually covers several soil bornediseases of plants and seed borne fungi.
________________________________________
Teak Patio Table - Why You Need One
Do you love to cook outdoors but end up having to dine on makeshift outdoor furniture or maybe even inside because you simply do not have the furniture to properly entertain in your yard, deck or patio? Would you love to find the perfect patio table or set to transform your empty space to an elegant outdoor dining room? If so, maybe you should think about enhancing your outdoor space with a teak patio table.Teak patio tables are crafted using the finest Javanese teak and come in a wide range of styles that can be easily matched with your personality, décor and budget.
________________________________________
Wildflower Seeds - Ten Reasons Why You Should Plant...
Native wildflowers are those that were growing naturally in the landscape before the first settlers arrived from Europe. Ever since that time more and more plants have been introduced from around the world with very mixed results.
________________________________________
Gift Ideas for Bird Lovers
Some of the best gifts you can give to a bird lover are those that have to do with birds! :)Here are a few favorites of all bird lovers:* Bird HousesYou can find a wide variety of bird house designs and styles. Usually anyone that really loves birds also really loves different types of bird houses too.
________________________________________
Fuchsia procumbens
Fuchsia (named after Leonhard Fuchs, a 16th century German botanist) is a genus of over 100 species of shrubs and small trees. Although there are four New Zealand native species (colensoi, excorticata, perscandens and procumbens) and one from Tahiti, the vast bulk of the genus occurs in Central and South America.
Think of fuchsias and chances are the fancy garden hybrids come to mind first. Showy as they are, it is not difficult to see they are related to wild species such as Fuchsia magellanica, Fuchsia denticulata and Fuchsia triphylla.
Some species, however, are less easy to distinguish. Our common native tree fuchsia (Fuchsia excorticata) has fuchsia-like flowers, though it can be hard to see the connection with the garden plants when it is not in bloom. But the likes of Fuchsia arborescens from Central America, with its panicles of tiny flowers, scarcely matches the common idea of a fuchsia.
The most widely grown of New Zealand's native species is Fuchsia procumbens and it too is quite unlike the garden cultivars. It is a low spreading plant with small rounded leaves and can be very hard to pick as a fuchsia until it flowers. Indeed, my initial experience of the plant was with cultivated specimens and I have to admit that I didn't immediately recognise wild plants when I first saw them.
This species was discovered in Northland in 1834 by Richard Cunningham. (some authorities call him Robert; in any case he should not be confused with his better known brother Allan.) However, it wasn't introduced into Europe until 40 years later in 1874. It has at times also been known as Fuchsia prostrata and Fuchsia kirkii.
The species occurs naturally in the north of the North Island down to northern Coromandel, often in coastal areas, and is now endangered in the wild. Though wild specimens can spread to several metres wide, cultivated plants are usually quite compact.
The flowers, which appear from mid to late spring are sometimes hard to see among the dense, sprawling foliage. The blooms are not the usual fuchsia colours - green and yellow, not red and purple - and most unusually, they face upwards rather than being pendulous. The blue pollen-tipped anthers are also very distinctive.
Upward facing flowers are scarcely surprising in a plant that grows so close to the ground. Nevertheless it is a feature that hybridisers have long been trying, with limited success, to breed into garden hybrids.
The real feature, and the reason why Fuchsia procumbens is grown by enthusiasts world-wide, is the berries that follow the flower. All fuchsias bear berries, but none can match the fruit of Fuchsia procumbens. While the bright red berries of wild plants are scarcely larger than redcurrants, cultivated plants may have fruit the size of small plums. The fruit has a grape-or plum-like bloom and is particularly showy because it is carried on top the foliage, not hanging below it. Fuchsia procumbens is a plant that likes to show off its wares.
This little trailing plant makes a superb hanging basket specimen and is very easy to grow. Despite its northerly natural distribution, it tolerates frosts and even withstands some drought. But strangely enough it is one of those New Zealand natives that is better know abroad than at home. British and American growers wouldn't be without it, but how often do you see a good specimen in a local garden?
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
________________________________________
MORE RESOURCES:
RELATED ARTICLES
________________________________________
Funky Garden Plants 2
What's a perennial garden plant that blooms in the winter? A hellebore! It is an outdoor plant that is shocking to see blooming sometimes in the snow. There are many varieties.
________________________________________
The Ultimate Magic Garden
Spring is the season to start planting seeds for the future. For me, the ultimate Magic Garden would be planted using the Feng Shui bagua as a guideline for the boundaries of the plot and incorporate flowers herbs and plants that correspond to each signifigant direction.
________________________________________
Gardeners Gift Ideas
Plant lovers and backyard enthusiasts are special people who will love your thoughtfulness when you chose a garden gift for them. If someone you know spends more than ninety percent of their day pruning and pairing, selecting garden gifts for their next birthday or anniversary might be the perfect token of your appreciation.
________________________________________
How To Attract Hummingbirds
Yes! You can attract hummingbirds to your home. Even if you live in the middle of the city, and even if you've never had any luck getting them to come in the past.
________________________________________
Basic Lawn Care - Mowing, Scarifiers, Aeration, and Watering Tips
The arrival of summer heralds a time of increased wear and tear for the average garden lawn. Children's yard games, barbecue parties, outdoor sports and generally more activity in the garden means your lawn is set to come in for something of a beating and without a little TLC is likely to start showing more than a little worse for wear.
________________________________________
How To Prune Your Roses For Stunning Results
Pruning and deadheading are essential to proper rose care. Alas, there are nearly as many opinions about how and when to prune as there are roses in need of pruning.
________________________________________
5 Most Popular Flowers for Your Garden
When planting a garden there are many questions which you must ask yourself before you begin. Where are you going to plant it, do you have the garden equipment to do so and how big do you want your garden to be? When do flowers bloom and what are their heights? These are all very important questions, however they mean very little if you have not yet decided which types of flowers you want to plant.
________________________________________
Sculpture Can Bring Life to Your Garden
I should know: I've been a sculptor most of my life, and I have plenty of years behind me of experience. Most of my sculptures reside in the gardens and landscaped outdoors of residences.
________________________________________
What is Compost Tea?
Organic gardeners all know compost is fantastic stuff. But now, there's something even better and that's compost tea.
________________________________________
Multi Purpose Tree - Sugar Palm
Palm family is unique in the aspect that most of its members have muli purpose benefits to the mankind, unrivalled by few other trees. There are several palm species such as Borassus, Areca, Sago, Fish Tail etc.
________________________________________
Patio Swings Spruce Up Your Outdoor Space with Comfort and Style
Are you looking for a way to spruce up your patio while providing additional seating at the same time? Are you tired and bored of the same old stationary patio seating that can be purchased in most stores? If so, maybe you should consider furnishing your patio with a unique patio swing.In addition to creating additional seating, patio swings provide a place of relaxation and meditation that will be appreciated by the whole family and guests as well.
________________________________________
Gardening with Bamboo
Myths and factsA misconception about bamboo is that they spread like wildfire. This is not entirely true as only a some species of bamboo will be invasive.
________________________________________
Dog Days of Summer
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
________________________________________
Why You Should Always Have Garden Furniture
You've put a lot of work into your garden, from planning to digging to weeding to all the little tasks that keep it looking beautiful. Sharing your garden with others is the next step, and doing that requires more than pretty rows of plants.
________________________________________
Cultivating Plants In Your Garden...What To Watch Out For
There are so many plants available for you to choose from that it's hard to know where to start. Are you looking for house plants, tropical plants or some beautiful garden plants? Green plants are not only beautiful to look at they also provide a much needed source of fresh oxygen for our breathing.
________________________________________
5 Simple Steps to Care For Your Push Reel Mower
Though most Push Reel Mowers made today are durable, they do require some basic care and simple maintenance in order to keep them running smoothly. Taking the following steps will ensure you have years of use on your push reel mower.
________________________________________
How to Plant Tulips
Quality Dutch tulip bulbs are easy to come by and fairly inexpensive to purchase. You can get them through a mail order catalogue or a reputable green house.
________________________________________
Closing Up Your Container Garden
All good things eventually come to an end and so summer is waning, even as autumn gives most of us a fresh start. I'll bet your summer container plantings aren't really benefiting, though, from the "back to school-oh I love a clean notebook" boost and aren't dying as gracefully as summer itself is.
________________________________________
Budget For Your Garden
Have you ever thought about how much it costs to maintain your garden? Most people never give it much thought - spending the odd day in the garden when they have time and impulse buying plants at the local nursery.But if you're serious about saving money and adding value to one of you're most important assets it's worth thinking about the ongoing costs associated with garden maintenance and how this can be minimized.
________________________________________
Turn Your Patio Into A Voluminous Vegetable Garden
My first apartment was a second-story condo in an urban complex, far displaced from the groomed suburban landscapes and sprawling gardens I had grown up with. My only connection to the outdoors was a small porch, surrounded by brown siding and a fading carpet of artificial turf.
________________________________________
Think of fuchsias and chances are the fancy garden hybrids come to mind first. Showy as they are, it is not difficult to see they are related to wild species such as Fuchsia magellanica, Fuchsia denticulata and Fuchsia triphylla.
Some species, however, are less easy to distinguish. Our common native tree fuchsia (Fuchsia excorticata) has fuchsia-like flowers, though it can be hard to see the connection with the garden plants when it is not in bloom. But the likes of Fuchsia arborescens from Central America, with its panicles of tiny flowers, scarcely matches the common idea of a fuchsia.
The most widely grown of New Zealand's native species is Fuchsia procumbens and it too is quite unlike the garden cultivars. It is a low spreading plant with small rounded leaves and can be very hard to pick as a fuchsia until it flowers. Indeed, my initial experience of the plant was with cultivated specimens and I have to admit that I didn't immediately recognise wild plants when I first saw them.
This species was discovered in Northland in 1834 by Richard Cunningham. (some authorities call him Robert; in any case he should not be confused with his better known brother Allan.) However, it wasn't introduced into Europe until 40 years later in 1874. It has at times also been known as Fuchsia prostrata and Fuchsia kirkii.
The species occurs naturally in the north of the North Island down to northern Coromandel, often in coastal areas, and is now endangered in the wild. Though wild specimens can spread to several metres wide, cultivated plants are usually quite compact.
The flowers, which appear from mid to late spring are sometimes hard to see among the dense, sprawling foliage. The blooms are not the usual fuchsia colours - green and yellow, not red and purple - and most unusually, they face upwards rather than being pendulous. The blue pollen-tipped anthers are also very distinctive.
Upward facing flowers are scarcely surprising in a plant that grows so close to the ground. Nevertheless it is a feature that hybridisers have long been trying, with limited success, to breed into garden hybrids.
The real feature, and the reason why Fuchsia procumbens is grown by enthusiasts world-wide, is the berries that follow the flower. All fuchsias bear berries, but none can match the fruit of Fuchsia procumbens. While the bright red berries of wild plants are scarcely larger than redcurrants, cultivated plants may have fruit the size of small plums. The fruit has a grape-or plum-like bloom and is particularly showy because it is carried on top the foliage, not hanging below it. Fuchsia procumbens is a plant that likes to show off its wares.
This little trailing plant makes a superb hanging basket specimen and is very easy to grow. Despite its northerly natural distribution, it tolerates frosts and even withstands some drought. But strangely enough it is one of those New Zealand natives that is better know abroad than at home. British and American growers wouldn't be without it, but how often do you see a good specimen in a local garden?
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
________________________________________
MORE RESOURCES:
RELATED ARTICLES
________________________________________
Funky Garden Plants 2
What's a perennial garden plant that blooms in the winter? A hellebore! It is an outdoor plant that is shocking to see blooming sometimes in the snow. There are many varieties.
________________________________________
The Ultimate Magic Garden
Spring is the season to start planting seeds for the future. For me, the ultimate Magic Garden would be planted using the Feng Shui bagua as a guideline for the boundaries of the plot and incorporate flowers herbs and plants that correspond to each signifigant direction.
________________________________________
Gardeners Gift Ideas
Plant lovers and backyard enthusiasts are special people who will love your thoughtfulness when you chose a garden gift for them. If someone you know spends more than ninety percent of their day pruning and pairing, selecting garden gifts for their next birthday or anniversary might be the perfect token of your appreciation.
________________________________________
How To Attract Hummingbirds
Yes! You can attract hummingbirds to your home. Even if you live in the middle of the city, and even if you've never had any luck getting them to come in the past.
________________________________________
Basic Lawn Care - Mowing, Scarifiers, Aeration, and Watering Tips
The arrival of summer heralds a time of increased wear and tear for the average garden lawn. Children's yard games, barbecue parties, outdoor sports and generally more activity in the garden means your lawn is set to come in for something of a beating and without a little TLC is likely to start showing more than a little worse for wear.
________________________________________
How To Prune Your Roses For Stunning Results
Pruning and deadheading are essential to proper rose care. Alas, there are nearly as many opinions about how and when to prune as there are roses in need of pruning.
________________________________________
5 Most Popular Flowers for Your Garden
When planting a garden there are many questions which you must ask yourself before you begin. Where are you going to plant it, do you have the garden equipment to do so and how big do you want your garden to be? When do flowers bloom and what are their heights? These are all very important questions, however they mean very little if you have not yet decided which types of flowers you want to plant.
________________________________________
Sculpture Can Bring Life to Your Garden
I should know: I've been a sculptor most of my life, and I have plenty of years behind me of experience. Most of my sculptures reside in the gardens and landscaped outdoors of residences.
________________________________________
What is Compost Tea?
Organic gardeners all know compost is fantastic stuff. But now, there's something even better and that's compost tea.
________________________________________
Multi Purpose Tree - Sugar Palm
Palm family is unique in the aspect that most of its members have muli purpose benefits to the mankind, unrivalled by few other trees. There are several palm species such as Borassus, Areca, Sago, Fish Tail etc.
________________________________________
Patio Swings Spruce Up Your Outdoor Space with Comfort and Style
Are you looking for a way to spruce up your patio while providing additional seating at the same time? Are you tired and bored of the same old stationary patio seating that can be purchased in most stores? If so, maybe you should consider furnishing your patio with a unique patio swing.In addition to creating additional seating, patio swings provide a place of relaxation and meditation that will be appreciated by the whole family and guests as well.
________________________________________
Gardening with Bamboo
Myths and factsA misconception about bamboo is that they spread like wildfire. This is not entirely true as only a some species of bamboo will be invasive.
________________________________________
Dog Days of Summer
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
________________________________________
Why You Should Always Have Garden Furniture
You've put a lot of work into your garden, from planning to digging to weeding to all the little tasks that keep it looking beautiful. Sharing your garden with others is the next step, and doing that requires more than pretty rows of plants.
________________________________________
Cultivating Plants In Your Garden...What To Watch Out For
There are so many plants available for you to choose from that it's hard to know where to start. Are you looking for house plants, tropical plants or some beautiful garden plants? Green plants are not only beautiful to look at they also provide a much needed source of fresh oxygen for our breathing.
________________________________________
5 Simple Steps to Care For Your Push Reel Mower
Though most Push Reel Mowers made today are durable, they do require some basic care and simple maintenance in order to keep them running smoothly. Taking the following steps will ensure you have years of use on your push reel mower.
________________________________________
How to Plant Tulips
Quality Dutch tulip bulbs are easy to come by and fairly inexpensive to purchase. You can get them through a mail order catalogue or a reputable green house.
________________________________________
Closing Up Your Container Garden
All good things eventually come to an end and so summer is waning, even as autumn gives most of us a fresh start. I'll bet your summer container plantings aren't really benefiting, though, from the "back to school-oh I love a clean notebook" boost and aren't dying as gracefully as summer itself is.
________________________________________
Budget For Your Garden
Have you ever thought about how much it costs to maintain your garden? Most people never give it much thought - spending the odd day in the garden when they have time and impulse buying plants at the local nursery.But if you're serious about saving money and adding value to one of you're most important assets it's worth thinking about the ongoing costs associated with garden maintenance and how this can be minimized.
________________________________________
Turn Your Patio Into A Voluminous Vegetable Garden
My first apartment was a second-story condo in an urban complex, far displaced from the groomed suburban landscapes and sprawling gardens I had grown up with. My only connection to the outdoors was a small porch, surrounded by brown siding and a fading carpet of artificial turf.
________________________________________
Kirengeshoma palmata
Kirengeshoma palmata
Sometimes known as yellow waxbells, Kirengeshoma palmata is a late-flowering rhizomatous perennial up to 1.2m high with arching stems and is native to the woods and mountain lowlands of Korea and the Japanese islands of Shikoku and Kyushu.
The unusual name? No, it doesn't come from an obscure Danish botanist called Kirengeshom. It's really just a Latinised version of the original Japanese name. Palmata, a common specific epithet, means shaped like a hand and refers to the foliage.
Formerly classified in its own family, it is now a member of the hydrangea family, although its flowers, which are around 3cm long, are more reminiscent of those of a single-flowered Japanese anemone. The flowers of most of the plants seen in gardens are a fairly deep yellow, though the colour of wild specimens ranges from white to apricot. While beautiful and graceful, the fleshy-petalled flowers, which are borne in sprays on wiry stems that bend under their own weight, never really open fully. The buds start to burst in early autumn.
While the flowers can be something of a disappointment, it isn't too great a disadvantage that they don't open fully as this is a plant grown as much for its foliage as its flowers. The leaves are up to 20cm long and wide with pointed lobes that are deeper on the basal leaves and very shallow on the reduced leaves found on the flower stems.
The generally accepted opinion is that it the only species in its genus, but some botanists prefer to classify the Korean plants separately as Kirengeshoma koreana. As far as gardeners are concerned any differences between the plants are very minor, though there is some suggestion that the Korean plants may eventually be larger than their Japanese cousins and that their flowers open more fully.
As you would expect, considering its origins, Kirengeshoma palmata prefers a moist, leafy, humus-rich soil in partial shade. In other words, typical woodland conditions. In late autumn it dies back to its rootstock, which is extremely hardy and quite capable of withstanding -15°C. It is propagated either by division in winter or early spring, or by raising from seed. The seed prefers cool temperatures, around 12 to 15°C and the germination time is variable, anywhere from 30to 300 days. I've found that sowing fresh seed in the autumn and leaving the seed tray in a shady place for germination in the following spring satisfies any stratification requirements and gives good results.
Kirengeshoma palmata is an ideal companion for any Japanese or Chinese woodland plants and looks magnificent under maples, the leaf shape of which it complements perfectly. Because it needs ample summer moisture it thrives at the edges of a bog garden with candelabra primroses, Rodgersia and irises. Its late flowering habit is invaluable in providing interest at a time of year when other woodland plants may be becoming rather dull.
So why isn't it far more common? I have absolutely no idea.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
________________________________________
MORE RESOURCES:
RELATED ARTICLES
________________________________________
How to Choose the Right Bulbs for Your Spring Flower Garden
Choosing the right bulbs involves more than just selecting colors and cultivars. Timing, bulb size, and most importantly, bulb health are equally significant factors in designing your spring garden.
________________________________________
Store Your Outdoor Furnishings to Make Them Last
In many parts of North America, the end of "porch season" has arrived. Whether you're clearing out for some oncoming bad weather, closing up the cottage for the season, beating the vandals on devil's night, or just retreating to your nest for the winter, you'll want to store away all of your outdoor items with maximum care.
________________________________________
Natural Garden Pest Control
No dig gardens essentially strive to be their own ecosystem. This is the sign of the best sort of garden, one that is in tune with itself without the need for pest or disease control.
________________________________________
Easy Pond and Water Garden Construction
Today's successful water garden usually is designed as an ecosystem that uses a balance between fish, plants and bacteria keeping the water clear. The type of pond I'm talking about is self-contained (not fed by a spring or stream) and between 100-900 sq ft; a backyard water garden that is easy to maintain and adds value to your lifestyle and property.
________________________________________
Planting Roses In Your Garden
Roses are an old standby for any garden and one of the worlds favorite flowers. There are over 5,000 varieties of roses in the United States and they can be used to enhance your garden in many ways - as creepers, shrubs, vines, climbers, hedges or just as beds of pure colour.
________________________________________
Dill: Scandinavias Most Important Culinary Herb
The ancient herb, Anethum graveolens or Fernleaf dill as it is commonly known, was mentioned some 5,000 years ago in early Egyptian writings. It is the most important culinary herb in Scandinavia, as popular as parsley is in other parts of the world.
________________________________________
Laying Out Your New Landscape
When planning your new landscape, the first place to start is by driving around your neighborhood and seeing what other people have done with their landscapes. Bring a sketch pad or digital camera to record things you like.
________________________________________
Roses - Creating Beautiful Cut Roses
Many gardeners like to enjoy their roses twice - first in the garden, then indoors as cut flowers. By choosing the right roses, cutting them at the proper time of day, and conditioning them after cutting, you can enjoy your cut roses for the longest possible time - up to five days or more after cutting.
________________________________________
Themes of Shade
A Shade Garden can be created in any of several different types of shade. It can be in the mottled shade that comes from a broad leaf tree to the deep dark woods mentioned in Robert Frost's "Stopping by A Woods on A Snowy Evening".
________________________________________
Fall Pond Cleaning
Doing a full pond cleaning during the colder winter months can bevery stressful on your fish. However, if the pond is reallydirty and full of 'muck' - then you may want to consider itbecause all of the decaying organic matter in the pond can causeproblems if the pond ices over, and this begins to de-gas androt.
________________________________________
A Storage Bench Provides Much Needed Outdoor Space
If you are like most of us, there are two things that you cannot get enough of: storage and outdoor seating. What if I told you that I have the perfect solution to solve both of these problems and that it comes in a stylish, hard to resist package?The truth is that by using storage benches to provide comfortable outdoor seating you can solve your storage issues as well.
________________________________________
10 Tips to Care for Your Antique Ceramics
To care for your antique ceramics you need a gentle touch and they'll last you a long time. This month we'll give you some useful tips to help you care for them.
________________________________________
Gardening for Birds Part 2
We've had some well needed rain this past week, though it makes it a bit difficult to get chores done outside.We're past the last frost date for my area so now I can get some planting done.
________________________________________
Three Stumbling Blocks to Growing Grapes in the Backyard
Are you one of those home gardeners that don't know the threestumbling blocks to successfully growing grapes in your backyard?Don't worry, you're not alone.I have grown grapes successfully under the worst of conditionssince 1975 and I can tell you that most of the problems gardenersencounter are because they don't understand the nature of thebeast that they are growing.
________________________________________
Preparing The Garden For Winter
Are you like me? Sad to see the summer end but at the same time relieved that there is one less task to tend to. Weeding, watering, pruning, and more weeding is over for this year and with a few more chores the outdoor gardening year draws to a close.
________________________________________
Light Up Your Garden And Brighten Your Life
Extending Your Living SpaceThe garden is fast being considered to be an extension to your living space and homeowners are putting as much effort into creating a harmonious environment outside as they are inside. A beautiful garden is also considered to be one of the biggest selling features of a home and can certainly help to add value and appeal.
________________________________________
The Care of Cattleya Orchids
Cattleya Care: a bit more in-depth.This month we are going to go into some detail about the care of cattleya orchids.
________________________________________
7 Factors Needed for a Compost Pile
Compost, made from decomposed grass clippings, leaves, twigs, and branches, becomes a dark, crumbly mixture of organic matter.Learn how composting works.
________________________________________
Gardening During Hard Times or Emergencies - You Can Feed Yourself!
Do you ever worry about always having to rely on getting seeds and fertilizer from the store? What would you do in a survival situation, if you could not go to a store to purchase these things?Let's compare it to your food supply. What would you do about your store-purchased food? Many wise people buy more than they need of food items that store well, and create a "year's supply" of the essentials in their basement or other cool, dry place.
________________________________________
A Compost Primer
Most gardeners and landscapers will agree almost unanimously that the single best thing you can do for your lawn is to add compost. Good, organic compost can remedy almost any problem you have with your soil.
________________________________________
Sometimes known as yellow waxbells, Kirengeshoma palmata is a late-flowering rhizomatous perennial up to 1.2m high with arching stems and is native to the woods and mountain lowlands of Korea and the Japanese islands of Shikoku and Kyushu.
The unusual name? No, it doesn't come from an obscure Danish botanist called Kirengeshom. It's really just a Latinised version of the original Japanese name. Palmata, a common specific epithet, means shaped like a hand and refers to the foliage.
Formerly classified in its own family, it is now a member of the hydrangea family, although its flowers, which are around 3cm long, are more reminiscent of those of a single-flowered Japanese anemone. The flowers of most of the plants seen in gardens are a fairly deep yellow, though the colour of wild specimens ranges from white to apricot. While beautiful and graceful, the fleshy-petalled flowers, which are borne in sprays on wiry stems that bend under their own weight, never really open fully. The buds start to burst in early autumn.
While the flowers can be something of a disappointment, it isn't too great a disadvantage that they don't open fully as this is a plant grown as much for its foliage as its flowers. The leaves are up to 20cm long and wide with pointed lobes that are deeper on the basal leaves and very shallow on the reduced leaves found on the flower stems.
The generally accepted opinion is that it the only species in its genus, but some botanists prefer to classify the Korean plants separately as Kirengeshoma koreana. As far as gardeners are concerned any differences between the plants are very minor, though there is some suggestion that the Korean plants may eventually be larger than their Japanese cousins and that their flowers open more fully.
As you would expect, considering its origins, Kirengeshoma palmata prefers a moist, leafy, humus-rich soil in partial shade. In other words, typical woodland conditions. In late autumn it dies back to its rootstock, which is extremely hardy and quite capable of withstanding -15°C. It is propagated either by division in winter or early spring, or by raising from seed. The seed prefers cool temperatures, around 12 to 15°C and the germination time is variable, anywhere from 30to 300 days. I've found that sowing fresh seed in the autumn and leaving the seed tray in a shady place for germination in the following spring satisfies any stratification requirements and gives good results.
Kirengeshoma palmata is an ideal companion for any Japanese or Chinese woodland plants and looks magnificent under maples, the leaf shape of which it complements perfectly. Because it needs ample summer moisture it thrives at the edges of a bog garden with candelabra primroses, Rodgersia and irises. Its late flowering habit is invaluable in providing interest at a time of year when other woodland plants may be becoming rather dull.
So why isn't it far more common? I have absolutely no idea.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
________________________________________
MORE RESOURCES:
RELATED ARTICLES
________________________________________
How to Choose the Right Bulbs for Your Spring Flower Garden
Choosing the right bulbs involves more than just selecting colors and cultivars. Timing, bulb size, and most importantly, bulb health are equally significant factors in designing your spring garden.
________________________________________
Store Your Outdoor Furnishings to Make Them Last
In many parts of North America, the end of "porch season" has arrived. Whether you're clearing out for some oncoming bad weather, closing up the cottage for the season, beating the vandals on devil's night, or just retreating to your nest for the winter, you'll want to store away all of your outdoor items with maximum care.
________________________________________
Natural Garden Pest Control
No dig gardens essentially strive to be their own ecosystem. This is the sign of the best sort of garden, one that is in tune with itself without the need for pest or disease control.
________________________________________
Easy Pond and Water Garden Construction
Today's successful water garden usually is designed as an ecosystem that uses a balance between fish, plants and bacteria keeping the water clear. The type of pond I'm talking about is self-contained (not fed by a spring or stream) and between 100-900 sq ft; a backyard water garden that is easy to maintain and adds value to your lifestyle and property.
________________________________________
Planting Roses In Your Garden
Roses are an old standby for any garden and one of the worlds favorite flowers. There are over 5,000 varieties of roses in the United States and they can be used to enhance your garden in many ways - as creepers, shrubs, vines, climbers, hedges or just as beds of pure colour.
________________________________________
Dill: Scandinavias Most Important Culinary Herb
The ancient herb, Anethum graveolens or Fernleaf dill as it is commonly known, was mentioned some 5,000 years ago in early Egyptian writings. It is the most important culinary herb in Scandinavia, as popular as parsley is in other parts of the world.
________________________________________
Laying Out Your New Landscape
When planning your new landscape, the first place to start is by driving around your neighborhood and seeing what other people have done with their landscapes. Bring a sketch pad or digital camera to record things you like.
________________________________________
Roses - Creating Beautiful Cut Roses
Many gardeners like to enjoy their roses twice - first in the garden, then indoors as cut flowers. By choosing the right roses, cutting them at the proper time of day, and conditioning them after cutting, you can enjoy your cut roses for the longest possible time - up to five days or more after cutting.
________________________________________
Themes of Shade
A Shade Garden can be created in any of several different types of shade. It can be in the mottled shade that comes from a broad leaf tree to the deep dark woods mentioned in Robert Frost's "Stopping by A Woods on A Snowy Evening".
________________________________________
Fall Pond Cleaning
Doing a full pond cleaning during the colder winter months can bevery stressful on your fish. However, if the pond is reallydirty and full of 'muck' - then you may want to consider itbecause all of the decaying organic matter in the pond can causeproblems if the pond ices over, and this begins to de-gas androt.
________________________________________
A Storage Bench Provides Much Needed Outdoor Space
If you are like most of us, there are two things that you cannot get enough of: storage and outdoor seating. What if I told you that I have the perfect solution to solve both of these problems and that it comes in a stylish, hard to resist package?The truth is that by using storage benches to provide comfortable outdoor seating you can solve your storage issues as well.
________________________________________
10 Tips to Care for Your Antique Ceramics
To care for your antique ceramics you need a gentle touch and they'll last you a long time. This month we'll give you some useful tips to help you care for them.
________________________________________
Gardening for Birds Part 2
We've had some well needed rain this past week, though it makes it a bit difficult to get chores done outside.We're past the last frost date for my area so now I can get some planting done.
________________________________________
Three Stumbling Blocks to Growing Grapes in the Backyard
Are you one of those home gardeners that don't know the threestumbling blocks to successfully growing grapes in your backyard?Don't worry, you're not alone.I have grown grapes successfully under the worst of conditionssince 1975 and I can tell you that most of the problems gardenersencounter are because they don't understand the nature of thebeast that they are growing.
________________________________________
Preparing The Garden For Winter
Are you like me? Sad to see the summer end but at the same time relieved that there is one less task to tend to. Weeding, watering, pruning, and more weeding is over for this year and with a few more chores the outdoor gardening year draws to a close.
________________________________________
Light Up Your Garden And Brighten Your Life
Extending Your Living SpaceThe garden is fast being considered to be an extension to your living space and homeowners are putting as much effort into creating a harmonious environment outside as they are inside. A beautiful garden is also considered to be one of the biggest selling features of a home and can certainly help to add value and appeal.
________________________________________
The Care of Cattleya Orchids
Cattleya Care: a bit more in-depth.This month we are going to go into some detail about the care of cattleya orchids.
________________________________________
7 Factors Needed for a Compost Pile
Compost, made from decomposed grass clippings, leaves, twigs, and branches, becomes a dark, crumbly mixture of organic matter.Learn how composting works.
________________________________________
Gardening During Hard Times or Emergencies - You Can Feed Yourself!
Do you ever worry about always having to rely on getting seeds and fertilizer from the store? What would you do in a survival situation, if you could not go to a store to purchase these things?Let's compare it to your food supply. What would you do about your store-purchased food? Many wise people buy more than they need of food items that store well, and create a "year's supply" of the essentials in their basement or other cool, dry place.
________________________________________
A Compost Primer
Most gardeners and landscapers will agree almost unanimously that the single best thing you can do for your lawn is to add compost. Good, organic compost can remedy almost any problem you have with your soil.
________________________________________
Friday, September 18, 2009
Camellias,
Camellias
Named by Linnaeus in 1735 in honour of the Jesuit priest and naturalist Georg Josef Kamel, Camellia is a genus originating mainly from China but with a range covering a large area of South East Asia. The exact number of species is not clear but it is somewhere around 100. Camellia is an important commercial genus because of one species, Camellia sinensis, the plant from which tea is made.
Most gardeners recognise two main groups of camellias, the autumn flowering and the spring flowering. However, it is not quite that simple. Whenever a genus of many species (such as
Rhododendron, Rosa or Camellia) is used to produce a multitude of hybrids distinct groups tend to form.
There are four main camellia groups: Japonica, Reticulata, Sasanqua and Hybrid, with a number of smaller groups based around less common species, such as Camellia hiemalis, and inter-specific hybrids, such as Camellia × williamsii (Camellia japonica × Camellia saluensis).
It's a commonly held belief among gardeners that Sansanquas are the autumn flowering camellias while the rest are spring flowerers. That's not really true, certainly the Sasanquas are usually the first to bloom but with careful selection and siting it is possible to have more or less continuous flowering from early autumn to late spring.
Cultivation
Camellias are often associated with rhododendrons and azaleas and, while not that closely related, they certainly prefer similar conditions. This is not at all surprising as they come from similar climates and can often be found growing together in the wild.
Camellias are generally less tolerant of extreme cold than the hardiest rhododendrons but they are by no means fussy plants. Most species and hybrids are hardy throughout the country, needing no protection except perhaps in very cold winter areas, and the summers here are
not usually hot and dry enough to cause much damage.
To get the best out of your camellias it is important that you follow the same soil preparation methods as recommended for rhododendrons. Camellias have stronger and deeper roots but they still require the same moist, humus filled, loose, well-oxygenated topsoil if they are to thrive. Likewise regular mulching is always beneficial.
Camellias prefer a neutral to acid soil and will not tolerate the extreme acidity that most rhododendrons will. On highly acid soils the addition of small amounts of dolomite lime will not only increase the pH but will allow easier uptake of nutrients.
Once established most camellias seem to get by quite well without too much attention but they are subject to the same chlorosis problems as rhododendrons so occasional supplementary feeding is recommended. Containerised camellias should be fed regularly as they are far more subject to deficiencies due to their limited root spread.
Camellias do best in sheltered positions in light shade or where they get only morning sun. This is not so much for the plant's sake as the flowers'. The plants will tolerate exposed sunny sites but the flowers won't. Too dense shade will promote lank growth and reduce flowering. Too sunny and the flowers will burn and drop prematurely. A site that is exposed to strong winds will dramatically shorten the life of any flowers but especially camellias.
Disbudding
Many camellias set large quantities of flower buds that often result in densely crowded small bloom. Thinning out the more densely packed and weaker flower buds will produce larger blooms of better shape.
Propagation
Camellias are not always easy to propagate without specialised equipment. Seed germinates well but is of limited usefulness as it can only be used to raise new cultivars or to propagate species. Selected forms must be propagated vegetatively.
Cuttings should be taken just as the new growth is hardening off. This is usually around the end of November. Take new tip growth cuttings that are about 100-150 mm long and follow the procedures outlined in the propagation chapter. The cuttings may take several months to strike without mist or bottom heat.
Layering is very successful with camellias but frequently there are no branches close enough to ground level to layer. In such cases aerial layering is a reliable, if slow, method.
Occasionally a camellia cultivar fails to perform well on its own roots. In which case grafting onto a more vigorous stock may be necessary. Standard camellias are nearly always produced by grafting rather than simply training a standard stem.
Cleft grafting is the usual method used, however, saddle grafts and side wedges will work too. Budding is seldom used but there is no reason why it shouldn't be successful. Specialised methods, such as seed grafts, are sometimes used but these are for genuine enthusiasts that are prepared to experiment.
Pests And Diseases
Camellias are relatively disease free but you may occasionally encounter one of the following problems.
Viral diseases
These are quite common among camellias, in fact, viruses are sometimes deliberately introduced to obtain variegated flowers and foliage. The most common virus shows up as a bright yellow leaf margin. This is known as virus induced variegation. In minor cases it does little harm but it can weaken a plant by reducing the amount of available chlorophyll. Virus diseases cannot be cured, once infected the plant remains infected.
Phytophthora root rot
This disease affects many types of plants, particularly those that prefer acid woodland conditions. This fungus disease kills the plant's roots, which leads to the characteristic wilted appearance and ultimately death. Generally the symptoms are not obvious until too late. Prevention through ensuring that the soil is well drained is the best method. Plants can sometimes be saved by washing off the soil, removing the dead roots, drenching with fungicide then replanting in a well-drained position but it's seldom worth the effort.
Leaf gall
A fungal disease similar to that seen on evergreen azaleas occasionally occurs on camellias. It causes a thickening and distorting of the leaves, which is eventually become white with fungal spores. Remove any affected leaves and spray the plant with a fungicide. Do not allow affected leaves to drop near the plant.
Petal blight
This fungal disease cause the flowers to degenerate to watery mush and can damage much of the crop. Control with fungicides prior to bud break and remove any fallen petals from around infected bushes.
Die-back
This can be a serious, even fatal, problem. The foliage of young branches wilts and browns then the stem begins to die back from the tip. A canker develops that eventually ringbarks the stem causing its death. If the cankers spread to the main stems the plant may die. Treatment with fungicides will help but is not entirely successful. Overcrowding, poor drainage and poor ventilation can all contribute to this problem as well as making the spread of the disease easier.
Camellias are generally not attacked by any particularly unusual insect pests, just the run of the mill, aphids, scale, caterpillars, leaf rollers and thrips. The usual control measures are effective on camellias too.
Bagworms can cause significant damage at times. The leaf covered silken bags (see illustration) are made by the larvae and the flightless adult females of the moth Liothula omnivora. The larvae feed from within the bag, which they carry around with them for protection and camouflage. Hand picking is the simplest control, the use of insecticides is not warranted except in cases of severe infestation.
Training
Besides their normal bushy habit many camellias are suitable subjects for training. The most common forms are the standard and the espalier.
Standards can be created in two ways. The easiest is to select a young plant with a single straight stem and simply remove the lower foliage and any side shoots as they appear. Stake the main stem as it grows and once it has reached the desired height nip out the tip growth to induce the branching that will eventually form the head.
The process can be speeded up by grafting but the mechanics are not as simple. Select a vigorous upright plant that will rapidly produce the standard trunk and graft your selected cultivar onto it at the desired height. Cleft grafts are the preferred method for camellias but I have found side wedge grafts to be successful. Grafting is the only practical way to produce a weeping standard.
Espaliering is just a matter of selecting an appropriate plant and having the patience to wait long enough to see the results. There are several methods of training the branches to achieve the best coverage but most camellias with thin pliable stems (primarily Sasanquas) can be espaliered with little effort. Remember though, camellias are not natural climbers, espaliers need to be secured to the structure against which they are growing.
Other special forms.
Camellias can make effective hedges, either tightly clipped or grown informally. As might be expected of a genus that contains the tea plant camellias can withstand frequent trimming when actively growing.
Some camellias are suitable for use as ground covers but usually only while they are young. In time all but the most prostrate forms will develop into mounding bushes rather than true ground covers. Pegging the branches down as the plants grow is the only way to ensure this doesn't happen.
Camellias in containers
Camellias adapt well to container growing but they are quick to show signs of nutrient deficiencies. Nothing looks less appealing than a badly chlorotic camellia in a tiny pot. However, with regular fertilising and the right sized containers camellias will thrive and bloom heavily in pots.
As with all container plants, remember that their roots are far less insulated from the elements than those of plants in the open ground. Make sure containerised camellias get regular water in summer and in cold winter areas move the containers to sheltered positions for winter to avoid having the soil freeze solid.
Flower forms
Camellias are available in several different flower forms. The descriptions in this book are kept as simple as possible but occasionally the technical terms must be used. The terms single, semi-doubleand double are familiar and fairly self-explanatory but most of the following terms are peculiar to camellia cultivation.
Anemone
A style with large outer petals and massed small central petaloids.
Peony (paeony) and informal double
Large outer petals and smaller loosely clustered central petals and petaloids. The more fully petalled flowers are known as full peony form.
Rose form double
A double flower that opens fully to reveal the stamens, like a fully blown rose.
Formal double
This flower type has perfectly arranged concentric circles of neatly overlapping petals. Some have the petals in a very clearly defined spiral pattern.
There are also rules governing the terms used to describe the size of flowers but as most non-specialist gardeners find these to be more confusing than useful they have not been strictly adhered to.
Species and cultivars
The following selection of species and cultivars includes those most popular for garden use or that have interesting or unusual features. They are divided into hybrid groups.
Species
These are the most popular or influential of the species but they are not widely available in nurseries, most gardeners preferring the hybrids.
Camellia chrysantha (China)
A yellow camellia was a long sought after aim of plant breeders, hence the basically white cultivars with optimistic names such as 'Brushfield's Yellow'. However, in 1980 a real yellow camellia was found in the Guangxi province of China. It flowered for the first time in the West in 1984 and has since been the subject of great interest and speculation among camellia growers. It is a large species that can reach 5 m high. The large leaves are deep green and heavily veined. The bright yellow flowers are only about 60 mm diameter but it is not the size of the flowers but their potential for hybridising that initially had breeders so enthused. Reasonably hardy but prefers consistent cool to moderate temperatures, intolerant of extremes. Camellia societies have a few plants of this species but even now it is not generally available through garden centres.
Camellia forrestii (China, Vietnam)
A large shrub or small tree native with narrow elliptical leaves and small white flowers that are mildly fragrant. Early to mid season.
Camellia fraterna (China)
Grows to about 5 m high. Small elliptical leaves. 25 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and prominent gold anthers. Slightly fragrant. Not totally hardy. Flowers mid season.
Camellia granthamiana (Hong Kong)
Very rare in the wild; known, until recently, from just one plant found in 1955. It may be a natural hybrid rather than a true species. Grows to about 3 m high. Deep green heavily veined elliptical leaves up to 200 mm long. Creamy white flowers up to 150 mm diameter with massed golden stamens. Flowers early. Not totally hardy.
Camellia hiemalis (Japan)
Not known in the wild and probably a natural hybrid between Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. Grows to about 3.5 m high. 30 mm diameter pale pink flowers with golden stamens. Small to medium sized elliptical leaves. Flowers early.
Camellia kissi (North East India to Southern China)
May grow as high as 12 m but usually consideably smaller. Medium sized narrow leaves. Small white flowers that are usually fragrant. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia lutchuensis (Southern Japan including Okinawa)
Grows to about 3 m high. Small leaves about 40 mm long. Very fragrant 50 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and gold anthers. Not always easy to grow and not totally hardy. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia japonica (Japan, Eastern China and Korea)
The parent of a vast number of cultivars. May grow to 15 m high in the wild. Broad deep green elliptical leaves up to 125mm long. The flower colour is variable but is usually red. Easily grown. Flowers mid season. There are several cultivated forms.
Camellia oleifera (Northern India, Southern China and South East Asia)
Grows to about 7 m high. Medium sized elliptical leaves with little or no serrations. Small white flowers with yellow stamens and slightly twisted petals. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia pitardii (Southern China)
Grows to about 7 m high. Medium sized heavily veined leaves up to 100 mm long. Small white, pink or white flushed pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late.
Camellia reticulata (Southern China)
Extensively used in hybridising. grows up to 15 m high in the wild. Large broad elliptical leaves with prominent veins (reticulate). 75 mm diameter mid pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late.
Camellia salicifolia (Hong Kong and Taiwan)
Grows to about 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical to oblong leaves with a very slight tomentum. Loose white flowers with white stamens. Mild fragrance. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia saluenensis (Southern China)
Grows to about 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical leaves. 50 mm diameter white to mid pink flowers with small golden stamens. May be single or semi-double. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia sasanqua (Japan and Ryukyu Islands)
Grows to about 5 m high. The leaves are around 55 mm long , usually narrow and distinctly pointed. 50 mm diameter white to pale pink flowers with yellow stamens. Occasionally slightly fragrant. Flowers early.
Camellia sinensis (India to China and South East Asia)
The tea plant is the most commercially important camellia. May grow to 15 m high but usually kept much smaller. Leaf size is variable; they are usually around 125 mm long but in mild moist climates they may be up to 225 mm long × 75 mm wide, heavily veined. White flowers (occasionally pale pink), about 40 mm diameter with yellow stamens. Flowers early.
Camellia transnokensis (Taiwan)
An upright bush to about 3 m high. Small bronze green leaves. Clusters of very small (25 mm diameter) white flowers with white stamens and golden anthers. Pink buds. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia tsai (Southern China, Burma and Vietnam)
Grows to about 10 m high in the wild but usually far smaller in gardens. 90 mm long glossy bronze green elliptical leaves. Slight weeping growth habit. Clusters of small white flushed pink flowers. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season. Not totally hardy.
Sasanqua and Hiemalis
A group of primarily early flowering plants (autumn to late winter) that is made up of varieties and hybrids of three species; Camellia sasanqua, Camellia hiemalis and Camellia vernalis.
Akebono
Small deep green leaves. Single mid pink flowers. Excellent hedge or espalier.
Bonanza
Medium to large semi-double deep red flowers. Long flowering season. Medium sized plant, upright growth. Good in tubs.
Bonsai Baby
Small deep red double flowers. Low, somewhat spreading growth habit.
Chansonette
Large deep pink double flowers with slightly ruffled petals. A densely foliage medium sized bush. Suitable for most styles of training.
Cotton Candy
Large soft pink semi-double flowers with slightly ruffled petals. Strong growing but inclined to be rather open and benefits from regular trimming to shape.
Exquisite
Large very pale pink single flowers with ruffled and lobed petals. Long branches make it well-suited to espaliering.
Hiryu-see Kanjiro
Jennifer Susan
Soft mid pink loosely petalled semi-double flowers. Very densely foliage compact growth. Makes a good hedge or espalier.
Kanjiro
Often sold as 'Hiryu'. Deep cerise pink single to semi-double flowers with lighter coloured centre. Dark green leaves. Strong upright growth.
Mine No Yuki
Medium sized white to cream semi-double flowers with ruffled petals. Loose pendulous growth habit.
Plantation Pink
Large mid pink single flowers. Very strong growing and makes a quick hedge.
Setsugekka
Large white semi-double with ruffled, slightly incurving petals. Strong growing upright bush.
Showa No Sakae
Medium sized light to mid pink loose semi-double flowers. Distinctly weeping to horizontal growth habit. may be used in hanging baskets.
Sparkling Burgundy
Small to medium sized deep pinkish red double flowers. Long flowering season. Vigorous grower. Suitable for most training styles.
Yuletide
Small bright red single flowers with prominent golden stamens. Long flowering season. Dense compact growth. Does well in tubs.
Japonica
The species forms and hybrids of Camellia japonica are among the most popular and widely grown camellias. Also included in this group are the Higo hybrids. These often ancient forms from Japan are not widely grown in New Zealand but a few are available.
The following is a selection of some of the most popular Japonicas.
Ave Maria (1956)
Pale pink medium sized formal double. Dense compact growth. Early to mid season.
Bambino (1959)
Small coral pink anemone form with well-defined petaloid centre. Dense compact growth. Flowers mid season.
Berenice Boddy (1946)
Medium sized light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Flowers mid season.
Betty Sheffield Supreme (1960)
Large loose white or very pale pink double with petals edged in deep pink. A beautiful picotee effect but rather variable. A sport of 'Betty Sheffield' (1949). A vigorous, yet compact bush. Flowers mid season.
Blood of China (1928)
Medium sized deep pinkish red semi-double to peony form. Often mildly scented. Strong grower but compact. Late flowering.
Bob Hope (1972)
Large deep blackish red semi-double. Very intense flower colour and deep green leaves. Strong upright growth. Mid season to late.
Bob's Tinsie (1962)
Small deep red anemone form with a white centre. Upright, very dense and bushy. Flowers mid season.
Brushfield's Yellow (1968)
Medium sized anemone form with white outer petals and creamy yellow petaloid centre. Strong growing but densely foliaged. Flowers mid season.
C.M. Hovey (1853)
Medium sized deep red formal double. Upright growth. Late flowering.
Can Can (1961)
Medium sized light pink peony form with deep cerise pink edged petals and veins. Upright growth. Flowers mid season.
Debutante (around 1900)
Medium sized light pink full paeony form. A strong growing densely foliage bush. Leaves may be a lighter green than most camellias. One of the most widely planted camellias. Flowers mid season.
Desire (1977)
Medium sized light pink formal double with deeper coloured petal edges. Dense compact growth. Flowers mid season.
Dolly Dyer (1973)
Small bright red anemone form with a densely packed petaloid centre. A medium sized densely foliaged bush. Flowers early to mid season.
Elegans Supreme (1960)
Large deep pink anemone form with finely serrated petal edges. One of several sports of the old cultivar 'Elegans' (1831). Large wavy edged leaves. A strong growing but compact bush. Flowers early to mid season.
Grand Slam (1962)
Large deep red semi-double or anemone form. Slightly fragrant. Deep green leaves. A very strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season.
Guest of Honor (1955)
Large mid to deep pink loose semi-double to peony form. Upright densely foliaged bush. Heavy flowering. Blooms mid season.
Guillio Nuccio (1956)
Very large deep coral pink semi-double with prominent stamens. The petals have wavy edges. Strong growing and very popular. Flowers mid season. Also available in a white and red variegated flower form.
K. Sawada (1940)
Large white rose form or formal double. Dense bushy growth. Flowers mid season.
Kramer's Supreme (1957)
Large bright red full peony form. Usually fragrant. Vigorous yet compact growth. Flowers mid season.
Laurie Bray (1955)
Medium to large light pink flowers that may be single or partially petaloid semi-double. Heavy flowering, tough and adaptable. Rather open growth that benefits from shaping when young. Flowers mid season.
Man Size (1961)
Small white anemone form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush if shaped when young but may otherwise tend to somewhat open growth. Flowers heavily around mid season.
Margaret Davis (1961)
Medium sized informal double. White with petals edged deep pink to orange red. Upright growth. Flowers mid season.
Mark Alan (1958)
Large deep purplish red semi-double or peony form. Narrow petals with a petaloid centre. Upright growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season.
Midnight (1963)
Medium sized deep red semi-double to anemone form. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season.
Mrs D.W. Davis (1954)
Very large bright pink semi-double. Densely foliaged vigorous upright growing bush. Flowers mid season.
Nuccio's Pearl (1977)
Medium sized very pale pink flushed mid pink formal double. An attractive 'airbrushed' colour effect that intensifies towards the centre and edges of the flower. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season.
Pink Pagoda (1963)
Medium to large mid pink formal double. Slightly wavy edged petals. An upright bush. Flowers mid season.
Prima Ballerina (1983)
Medium to large semi-double. White base colour washed with soft mid pink. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season to late.
Roger Hall (1979)
Medium sized bright red formal double. A strong growing upright bush. Starts early and flowers over a long season.
San Dimas (1971)
Medium to large deep red petaloid semi-double. Dense compact bush. Flowers early to mid season.
Tiffany (1962)
Very large loose peony form. Soft mid pink with deeper tones. Vigorous yet compact bush. Flowers mid season to late.
Reticulata
Reticulatas are usually regarded as being less hardy than other camellias but most survive New Zealand winters unscathed.
Barbara Clark (1958)
Medium sized mid pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Starts to flower early and continues over a long season.
Brian (1958)
Medium sized deep pink semi-double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late.
Buddha (1948)
Large deep pink semi-double flowers with wavy edged petals. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season.
Dr. Clifford Parks (1971)
Large bright red flower. The form is very variable, it ranges from semi-double to peony to anemone form. Flowers mid season.
Grand Jury (1962)
Large salmon pink peony form. A large open bush that benefits from pruning to shape when young. Flowers mid season.
Lasca Beauty (1973)
Very large light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower that is inclined to become a little open. Flowers mid season.
Pavlova (1978)
Very large bright red semi-double. A strong spreading bush. Makes a good espalier. Flowers mid season to late.
Phyl Doak (1958)
Medium to large pale pink semi-double. A dense compact bush. Starts to flower early and continues over a long season.
Sugar Dream (1984)
Medium sized mid pink anemone form. Upright growth, inclined to be somewhat open but benefits from trimming to shape when young. Early flowering.
Valley M. Knudsen (1958)
Large deep pin semi-double to peony form. Strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season to late.
× williamsii hybrids
This fairly diverse group of hybrids results from fertilising Camellia saluensis, or a hybrid thereof, with pollen from Camellia japonica.
Anticipation (1962)
Large deep pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season.
Ballet Queen (1975)
Large salmon pink peony form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush. Flowers mid season to late.
Debbie (1965)
Large bright mid pink semi-double to full peony form. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season. One of the most popular cultivars.
Donation (1941)
Large mid pink semi-double with darker veining. Vigorous yet compact. Starts early mid season and continues over a long season.
Dreamboat (1976)
A large formal double. The base colour is mid pink but has very subtle lavender and salmon pink shading. The growth is somewhat open. Flowers mid season.
E.G. Waterhouse (1954)
Medium sized light pink formal double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Also available with a light pink and white variegated flower.
Elsie Jury (1964)
Large deep pink full peony form. Medium sized open growing bush. May be trained as an espalier. Flowers mid season to late.
Jury's Yellow (1976)
Medium sized anemone form. White with creamy yellow petaloid centre. Dense compact growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season.
Water Lily (1967)
Medium sized formal double. Bright light pink with darker toning. The petals have distinctly rolled edges. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season.
Hybrids
This catch-all group covers plants of indeterminate parentage and those that don't fit into any of the other groups. Some authorities divide the hybrids by size, particularly separating out the miniatures.
Baby Bear (1976)
Miniature light pink single. A small densely foliage bush that is very popular for container growing. Flowers mid season.
Baby Willow (1983)
Miniature white single. Very distinctive weeping growth. When grafted it makes a good weeping standard. Flowers mid season.
Cinnamon Cindy (1973)
Miniature pale pink peony form. The central petaloids may be very pale pink. Upright willowy stems. Espaliers well. Flowers early to mid season.
Cornish Snow (1950)
Small white tinted pink single flowers. Very heavy flowering. Upright open growth. Flowers mid season.
Itty Bit (1984)
Miniature light pink anemone form. A densely foliaged low growing spreading bush. Flowers mid season.
Jubilation (1978)
Large mid pink rose form double. Occasionally has darker flecked flowers. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late.
Mary Phoebe Taylor (1975)
Very large mid pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season.
Nicky Crisp (1980)
Large lavender pink semi-double. Dense compact bush. Starts to flower early and continues over a long season.
Night Rider (1985)
Small deep red semi-double. Upright bush. Flowers mid season to late.
Quintessence (1985)
Miniature white single with conspicuous golden yellow anthers and white stamens. Mildly fragrant. Dense spreading growth. Very popular as a container plant. Flowers early to mid season.
Snippet (1971)
Small pale pink semi-double. Eventually a dense compact bush but somewhat open when young. Flowers mid season.
Tiny Princess (1961)
Miniature semi-double to peony form. White to very pale pink with darker tints. Slow growing and may become rather open but occasional pinching back will produce a neat low bush. Flowers early to mid season.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
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Named by Linnaeus in 1735 in honour of the Jesuit priest and naturalist Georg Josef Kamel, Camellia is a genus originating mainly from China but with a range covering a large area of South East Asia. The exact number of species is not clear but it is somewhere around 100. Camellia is an important commercial genus because of one species, Camellia sinensis, the plant from which tea is made.
Most gardeners recognise two main groups of camellias, the autumn flowering and the spring flowering. However, it is not quite that simple. Whenever a genus of many species (such as
Rhododendron, Rosa or Camellia) is used to produce a multitude of hybrids distinct groups tend to form.
There are four main camellia groups: Japonica, Reticulata, Sasanqua and Hybrid, with a number of smaller groups based around less common species, such as Camellia hiemalis, and inter-specific hybrids, such as Camellia × williamsii (Camellia japonica × Camellia saluensis).
It's a commonly held belief among gardeners that Sansanquas are the autumn flowering camellias while the rest are spring flowerers. That's not really true, certainly the Sasanquas are usually the first to bloom but with careful selection and siting it is possible to have more or less continuous flowering from early autumn to late spring.
Cultivation
Camellias are often associated with rhododendrons and azaleas and, while not that closely related, they certainly prefer similar conditions. This is not at all surprising as they come from similar climates and can often be found growing together in the wild.
Camellias are generally less tolerant of extreme cold than the hardiest rhododendrons but they are by no means fussy plants. Most species and hybrids are hardy throughout the country, needing no protection except perhaps in very cold winter areas, and the summers here are
not usually hot and dry enough to cause much damage.
To get the best out of your camellias it is important that you follow the same soil preparation methods as recommended for rhododendrons. Camellias have stronger and deeper roots but they still require the same moist, humus filled, loose, well-oxygenated topsoil if they are to thrive. Likewise regular mulching is always beneficial.
Camellias prefer a neutral to acid soil and will not tolerate the extreme acidity that most rhododendrons will. On highly acid soils the addition of small amounts of dolomite lime will not only increase the pH but will allow easier uptake of nutrients.
Once established most camellias seem to get by quite well without too much attention but they are subject to the same chlorosis problems as rhododendrons so occasional supplementary feeding is recommended. Containerised camellias should be fed regularly as they are far more subject to deficiencies due to their limited root spread.
Camellias do best in sheltered positions in light shade or where they get only morning sun. This is not so much for the plant's sake as the flowers'. The plants will tolerate exposed sunny sites but the flowers won't. Too dense shade will promote lank growth and reduce flowering. Too sunny and the flowers will burn and drop prematurely. A site that is exposed to strong winds will dramatically shorten the life of any flowers but especially camellias.
Disbudding
Many camellias set large quantities of flower buds that often result in densely crowded small bloom. Thinning out the more densely packed and weaker flower buds will produce larger blooms of better shape.
Propagation
Camellias are not always easy to propagate without specialised equipment. Seed germinates well but is of limited usefulness as it can only be used to raise new cultivars or to propagate species. Selected forms must be propagated vegetatively.
Cuttings should be taken just as the new growth is hardening off. This is usually around the end of November. Take new tip growth cuttings that are about 100-150 mm long and follow the procedures outlined in the propagation chapter. The cuttings may take several months to strike without mist or bottom heat.
Layering is very successful with camellias but frequently there are no branches close enough to ground level to layer. In such cases aerial layering is a reliable, if slow, method.
Occasionally a camellia cultivar fails to perform well on its own roots. In which case grafting onto a more vigorous stock may be necessary. Standard camellias are nearly always produced by grafting rather than simply training a standard stem.
Cleft grafting is the usual method used, however, saddle grafts and side wedges will work too. Budding is seldom used but there is no reason why it shouldn't be successful. Specialised methods, such as seed grafts, are sometimes used but these are for genuine enthusiasts that are prepared to experiment.
Pests And Diseases
Camellias are relatively disease free but you may occasionally encounter one of the following problems.
Viral diseases
These are quite common among camellias, in fact, viruses are sometimes deliberately introduced to obtain variegated flowers and foliage. The most common virus shows up as a bright yellow leaf margin. This is known as virus induced variegation. In minor cases it does little harm but it can weaken a plant by reducing the amount of available chlorophyll. Virus diseases cannot be cured, once infected the plant remains infected.
Phytophthora root rot
This disease affects many types of plants, particularly those that prefer acid woodland conditions. This fungus disease kills the plant's roots, which leads to the characteristic wilted appearance and ultimately death. Generally the symptoms are not obvious until too late. Prevention through ensuring that the soil is well drained is the best method. Plants can sometimes be saved by washing off the soil, removing the dead roots, drenching with fungicide then replanting in a well-drained position but it's seldom worth the effort.
Leaf gall
A fungal disease similar to that seen on evergreen azaleas occasionally occurs on camellias. It causes a thickening and distorting of the leaves, which is eventually become white with fungal spores. Remove any affected leaves and spray the plant with a fungicide. Do not allow affected leaves to drop near the plant.
Petal blight
This fungal disease cause the flowers to degenerate to watery mush and can damage much of the crop. Control with fungicides prior to bud break and remove any fallen petals from around infected bushes.
Die-back
This can be a serious, even fatal, problem. The foliage of young branches wilts and browns then the stem begins to die back from the tip. A canker develops that eventually ringbarks the stem causing its death. If the cankers spread to the main stems the plant may die. Treatment with fungicides will help but is not entirely successful. Overcrowding, poor drainage and poor ventilation can all contribute to this problem as well as making the spread of the disease easier.
Camellias are generally not attacked by any particularly unusual insect pests, just the run of the mill, aphids, scale, caterpillars, leaf rollers and thrips. The usual control measures are effective on camellias too.
Bagworms can cause significant damage at times. The leaf covered silken bags (see illustration) are made by the larvae and the flightless adult females of the moth Liothula omnivora. The larvae feed from within the bag, which they carry around with them for protection and camouflage. Hand picking is the simplest control, the use of insecticides is not warranted except in cases of severe infestation.
Training
Besides their normal bushy habit many camellias are suitable subjects for training. The most common forms are the standard and the espalier.
Standards can be created in two ways. The easiest is to select a young plant with a single straight stem and simply remove the lower foliage and any side shoots as they appear. Stake the main stem as it grows and once it has reached the desired height nip out the tip growth to induce the branching that will eventually form the head.
The process can be speeded up by grafting but the mechanics are not as simple. Select a vigorous upright plant that will rapidly produce the standard trunk and graft your selected cultivar onto it at the desired height. Cleft grafts are the preferred method for camellias but I have found side wedge grafts to be successful. Grafting is the only practical way to produce a weeping standard.
Espaliering is just a matter of selecting an appropriate plant and having the patience to wait long enough to see the results. There are several methods of training the branches to achieve the best coverage but most camellias with thin pliable stems (primarily Sasanquas) can be espaliered with little effort. Remember though, camellias are not natural climbers, espaliers need to be secured to the structure against which they are growing.
Other special forms.
Camellias can make effective hedges, either tightly clipped or grown informally. As might be expected of a genus that contains the tea plant camellias can withstand frequent trimming when actively growing.
Some camellias are suitable for use as ground covers but usually only while they are young. In time all but the most prostrate forms will develop into mounding bushes rather than true ground covers. Pegging the branches down as the plants grow is the only way to ensure this doesn't happen.
Camellias in containers
Camellias adapt well to container growing but they are quick to show signs of nutrient deficiencies. Nothing looks less appealing than a badly chlorotic camellia in a tiny pot. However, with regular fertilising and the right sized containers camellias will thrive and bloom heavily in pots.
As with all container plants, remember that their roots are far less insulated from the elements than those of plants in the open ground. Make sure containerised camellias get regular water in summer and in cold winter areas move the containers to sheltered positions for winter to avoid having the soil freeze solid.
Flower forms
Camellias are available in several different flower forms. The descriptions in this book are kept as simple as possible but occasionally the technical terms must be used. The terms single, semi-doubleand double are familiar and fairly self-explanatory but most of the following terms are peculiar to camellia cultivation.
Anemone
A style with large outer petals and massed small central petaloids.
Peony (paeony) and informal double
Large outer petals and smaller loosely clustered central petals and petaloids. The more fully petalled flowers are known as full peony form.
Rose form double
A double flower that opens fully to reveal the stamens, like a fully blown rose.
Formal double
This flower type has perfectly arranged concentric circles of neatly overlapping petals. Some have the petals in a very clearly defined spiral pattern.
There are also rules governing the terms used to describe the size of flowers but as most non-specialist gardeners find these to be more confusing than useful they have not been strictly adhered to.
Species and cultivars
The following selection of species and cultivars includes those most popular for garden use or that have interesting or unusual features. They are divided into hybrid groups.
Species
These are the most popular or influential of the species but they are not widely available in nurseries, most gardeners preferring the hybrids.
Camellia chrysantha (China)
A yellow camellia was a long sought after aim of plant breeders, hence the basically white cultivars with optimistic names such as 'Brushfield's Yellow'. However, in 1980 a real yellow camellia was found in the Guangxi province of China. It flowered for the first time in the West in 1984 and has since been the subject of great interest and speculation among camellia growers. It is a large species that can reach 5 m high. The large leaves are deep green and heavily veined. The bright yellow flowers are only about 60 mm diameter but it is not the size of the flowers but their potential for hybridising that initially had breeders so enthused. Reasonably hardy but prefers consistent cool to moderate temperatures, intolerant of extremes. Camellia societies have a few plants of this species but even now it is not generally available through garden centres.
Camellia forrestii (China, Vietnam)
A large shrub or small tree native with narrow elliptical leaves and small white flowers that are mildly fragrant. Early to mid season.
Camellia fraterna (China)
Grows to about 5 m high. Small elliptical leaves. 25 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and prominent gold anthers. Slightly fragrant. Not totally hardy. Flowers mid season.
Camellia granthamiana (Hong Kong)
Very rare in the wild; known, until recently, from just one plant found in 1955. It may be a natural hybrid rather than a true species. Grows to about 3 m high. Deep green heavily veined elliptical leaves up to 200 mm long. Creamy white flowers up to 150 mm diameter with massed golden stamens. Flowers early. Not totally hardy.
Camellia hiemalis (Japan)
Not known in the wild and probably a natural hybrid between Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. Grows to about 3.5 m high. 30 mm diameter pale pink flowers with golden stamens. Small to medium sized elliptical leaves. Flowers early.
Camellia kissi (North East India to Southern China)
May grow as high as 12 m but usually consideably smaller. Medium sized narrow leaves. Small white flowers that are usually fragrant. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia lutchuensis (Southern Japan including Okinawa)
Grows to about 3 m high. Small leaves about 40 mm long. Very fragrant 50 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and gold anthers. Not always easy to grow and not totally hardy. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia japonica (Japan, Eastern China and Korea)
The parent of a vast number of cultivars. May grow to 15 m high in the wild. Broad deep green elliptical leaves up to 125mm long. The flower colour is variable but is usually red. Easily grown. Flowers mid season. There are several cultivated forms.
Camellia oleifera (Northern India, Southern China and South East Asia)
Grows to about 7 m high. Medium sized elliptical leaves with little or no serrations. Small white flowers with yellow stamens and slightly twisted petals. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia pitardii (Southern China)
Grows to about 7 m high. Medium sized heavily veined leaves up to 100 mm long. Small white, pink or white flushed pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late.
Camellia reticulata (Southern China)
Extensively used in hybridising. grows up to 15 m high in the wild. Large broad elliptical leaves with prominent veins (reticulate). 75 mm diameter mid pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late.
Camellia salicifolia (Hong Kong and Taiwan)
Grows to about 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical to oblong leaves with a very slight tomentum. Loose white flowers with white stamens. Mild fragrance. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia saluenensis (Southern China)
Grows to about 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical leaves. 50 mm diameter white to mid pink flowers with small golden stamens. May be single or semi-double. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia sasanqua (Japan and Ryukyu Islands)
Grows to about 5 m high. The leaves are around 55 mm long , usually narrow and distinctly pointed. 50 mm diameter white to pale pink flowers with yellow stamens. Occasionally slightly fragrant. Flowers early.
Camellia sinensis (India to China and South East Asia)
The tea plant is the most commercially important camellia. May grow to 15 m high but usually kept much smaller. Leaf size is variable; they are usually around 125 mm long but in mild moist climates they may be up to 225 mm long × 75 mm wide, heavily veined. White flowers (occasionally pale pink), about 40 mm diameter with yellow stamens. Flowers early.
Camellia transnokensis (Taiwan)
An upright bush to about 3 m high. Small bronze green leaves. Clusters of very small (25 mm diameter) white flowers with white stamens and golden anthers. Pink buds. Flowers mid season to late.
Camellia tsai (Southern China, Burma and Vietnam)
Grows to about 10 m high in the wild but usually far smaller in gardens. 90 mm long glossy bronze green elliptical leaves. Slight weeping growth habit. Clusters of small white flushed pink flowers. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season. Not totally hardy.
Sasanqua and Hiemalis
A group of primarily early flowering plants (autumn to late winter) that is made up of varieties and hybrids of three species; Camellia sasanqua, Camellia hiemalis and Camellia vernalis.
Akebono
Small deep green leaves. Single mid pink flowers. Excellent hedge or espalier.
Bonanza
Medium to large semi-double deep red flowers. Long flowering season. Medium sized plant, upright growth. Good in tubs.
Bonsai Baby
Small deep red double flowers. Low, somewhat spreading growth habit.
Chansonette
Large deep pink double flowers with slightly ruffled petals. A densely foliage medium sized bush. Suitable for most styles of training.
Cotton Candy
Large soft pink semi-double flowers with slightly ruffled petals. Strong growing but inclined to be rather open and benefits from regular trimming to shape.
Exquisite
Large very pale pink single flowers with ruffled and lobed petals. Long branches make it well-suited to espaliering.
Hiryu-see Kanjiro
Jennifer Susan
Soft mid pink loosely petalled semi-double flowers. Very densely foliage compact growth. Makes a good hedge or espalier.
Kanjiro
Often sold as 'Hiryu'. Deep cerise pink single to semi-double flowers with lighter coloured centre. Dark green leaves. Strong upright growth.
Mine No Yuki
Medium sized white to cream semi-double flowers with ruffled petals. Loose pendulous growth habit.
Plantation Pink
Large mid pink single flowers. Very strong growing and makes a quick hedge.
Setsugekka
Large white semi-double with ruffled, slightly incurving petals. Strong growing upright bush.
Showa No Sakae
Medium sized light to mid pink loose semi-double flowers. Distinctly weeping to horizontal growth habit. may be used in hanging baskets.
Sparkling Burgundy
Small to medium sized deep pinkish red double flowers. Long flowering season. Vigorous grower. Suitable for most training styles.
Yuletide
Small bright red single flowers with prominent golden stamens. Long flowering season. Dense compact growth. Does well in tubs.
Japonica
The species forms and hybrids of Camellia japonica are among the most popular and widely grown camellias. Also included in this group are the Higo hybrids. These often ancient forms from Japan are not widely grown in New Zealand but a few are available.
The following is a selection of some of the most popular Japonicas.
Ave Maria (1956)
Pale pink medium sized formal double. Dense compact growth. Early to mid season.
Bambino (1959)
Small coral pink anemone form with well-defined petaloid centre. Dense compact growth. Flowers mid season.
Berenice Boddy (1946)
Medium sized light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Flowers mid season.
Betty Sheffield Supreme (1960)
Large loose white or very pale pink double with petals edged in deep pink. A beautiful picotee effect but rather variable. A sport of 'Betty Sheffield' (1949). A vigorous, yet compact bush. Flowers mid season.
Blood of China (1928)
Medium sized deep pinkish red semi-double to peony form. Often mildly scented. Strong grower but compact. Late flowering.
Bob Hope (1972)
Large deep blackish red semi-double. Very intense flower colour and deep green leaves. Strong upright growth. Mid season to late.
Bob's Tinsie (1962)
Small deep red anemone form with a white centre. Upright, very dense and bushy. Flowers mid season.
Brushfield's Yellow (1968)
Medium sized anemone form with white outer petals and creamy yellow petaloid centre. Strong growing but densely foliaged. Flowers mid season.
C.M. Hovey (1853)
Medium sized deep red formal double. Upright growth. Late flowering.
Can Can (1961)
Medium sized light pink peony form with deep cerise pink edged petals and veins. Upright growth. Flowers mid season.
Debutante (around 1900)
Medium sized light pink full paeony form. A strong growing densely foliage bush. Leaves may be a lighter green than most camellias. One of the most widely planted camellias. Flowers mid season.
Desire (1977)
Medium sized light pink formal double with deeper coloured petal edges. Dense compact growth. Flowers mid season.
Dolly Dyer (1973)
Small bright red anemone form with a densely packed petaloid centre. A medium sized densely foliaged bush. Flowers early to mid season.
Elegans Supreme (1960)
Large deep pink anemone form with finely serrated petal edges. One of several sports of the old cultivar 'Elegans' (1831). Large wavy edged leaves. A strong growing but compact bush. Flowers early to mid season.
Grand Slam (1962)
Large deep red semi-double or anemone form. Slightly fragrant. Deep green leaves. A very strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season.
Guest of Honor (1955)
Large mid to deep pink loose semi-double to peony form. Upright densely foliaged bush. Heavy flowering. Blooms mid season.
Guillio Nuccio (1956)
Very large deep coral pink semi-double with prominent stamens. The petals have wavy edges. Strong growing and very popular. Flowers mid season. Also available in a white and red variegated flower form.
K. Sawada (1940)
Large white rose form or formal double. Dense bushy growth. Flowers mid season.
Kramer's Supreme (1957)
Large bright red full peony form. Usually fragrant. Vigorous yet compact growth. Flowers mid season.
Laurie Bray (1955)
Medium to large light pink flowers that may be single or partially petaloid semi-double. Heavy flowering, tough and adaptable. Rather open growth that benefits from shaping when young. Flowers mid season.
Man Size (1961)
Small white anemone form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush if shaped when young but may otherwise tend to somewhat open growth. Flowers heavily around mid season.
Margaret Davis (1961)
Medium sized informal double. White with petals edged deep pink to orange red. Upright growth. Flowers mid season.
Mark Alan (1958)
Large deep purplish red semi-double or peony form. Narrow petals with a petaloid centre. Upright growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season.
Midnight (1963)
Medium sized deep red semi-double to anemone form. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season.
Mrs D.W. Davis (1954)
Very large bright pink semi-double. Densely foliaged vigorous upright growing bush. Flowers mid season.
Nuccio's Pearl (1977)
Medium sized very pale pink flushed mid pink formal double. An attractive 'airbrushed' colour effect that intensifies towards the centre and edges of the flower. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season.
Pink Pagoda (1963)
Medium to large mid pink formal double. Slightly wavy edged petals. An upright bush. Flowers mid season.
Prima Ballerina (1983)
Medium to large semi-double. White base colour washed with soft mid pink. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season to late.
Roger Hall (1979)
Medium sized bright red formal double. A strong growing upright bush. Starts early and flowers over a long season.
San Dimas (1971)
Medium to large deep red petaloid semi-double. Dense compact bush. Flowers early to mid season.
Tiffany (1962)
Very large loose peony form. Soft mid pink with deeper tones. Vigorous yet compact bush. Flowers mid season to late.
Reticulata
Reticulatas are usually regarded as being less hardy than other camellias but most survive New Zealand winters unscathed.
Barbara Clark (1958)
Medium sized mid pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Starts to flower early and continues over a long season.
Brian (1958)
Medium sized deep pink semi-double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late.
Buddha (1948)
Large deep pink semi-double flowers with wavy edged petals. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season.
Dr. Clifford Parks (1971)
Large bright red flower. The form is very variable, it ranges from semi-double to peony to anemone form. Flowers mid season.
Grand Jury (1962)
Large salmon pink peony form. A large open bush that benefits from pruning to shape when young. Flowers mid season.
Lasca Beauty (1973)
Very large light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower that is inclined to become a little open. Flowers mid season.
Pavlova (1978)
Very large bright red semi-double. A strong spreading bush. Makes a good espalier. Flowers mid season to late.
Phyl Doak (1958)
Medium to large pale pink semi-double. A dense compact bush. Starts to flower early and continues over a long season.
Sugar Dream (1984)
Medium sized mid pink anemone form. Upright growth, inclined to be somewhat open but benefits from trimming to shape when young. Early flowering.
Valley M. Knudsen (1958)
Large deep pin semi-double to peony form. Strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season to late.
× williamsii hybrids
This fairly diverse group of hybrids results from fertilising Camellia saluensis, or a hybrid thereof, with pollen from Camellia japonica.
Anticipation (1962)
Large deep pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season.
Ballet Queen (1975)
Large salmon pink peony form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush. Flowers mid season to late.
Debbie (1965)
Large bright mid pink semi-double to full peony form. A dense compact bush. Flowers mid season. One of the most popular cultivars.
Donation (1941)
Large mid pink semi-double with darker veining. Vigorous yet compact. Starts early mid season and continues over a long season.
Dreamboat (1976)
A large formal double. The base colour is mid pink but has very subtle lavender and salmon pink shading. The growth is somewhat open. Flowers mid season.
E.G. Waterhouse (1954)
Medium sized light pink formal double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Also available with a light pink and white variegated flower.
Elsie Jury (1964)
Large deep pink full peony form. Medium sized open growing bush. May be trained as an espalier. Flowers mid season to late.
Jury's Yellow (1976)
Medium sized anemone form. White with creamy yellow petaloid centre. Dense compact growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season.
Water Lily (1967)
Medium sized formal double. Bright light pink with darker toning. The petals have distinctly rolled edges. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season.
Hybrids
This catch-all group covers plants of indeterminate parentage and those that don't fit into any of the other groups. Some authorities divide the hybrids by size, particularly separating out the miniatures.
Baby Bear (1976)
Miniature light pink single. A small densely foliage bush that is very popular for container growing. Flowers mid season.
Baby Willow (1983)
Miniature white single. Very distinctive weeping growth. When grafted it makes a good weeping standard. Flowers mid season.
Cinnamon Cindy (1973)
Miniature pale pink peony form. The central petaloids may be very pale pink. Upright willowy stems. Espaliers well. Flowers early to mid season.
Cornish Snow (1950)
Small white tinted pink single flowers. Very heavy flowering. Upright open growth. Flowers mid season.
Itty Bit (1984)
Miniature light pink anemone form. A densely foliaged low growing spreading bush. Flowers mid season.
Jubilation (1978)
Large mid pink rose form double. Occasionally has darker flecked flowers. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late.
Mary Phoebe Taylor (1975)
Very large mid pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season.
Nicky Crisp (1980)
Large lavender pink semi-double. Dense compact bush. Starts to flower early and continues over a long season.
Night Rider (1985)
Small deep red semi-double. Upright bush. Flowers mid season to late.
Quintessence (1985)
Miniature white single with conspicuous golden yellow anthers and white stamens. Mildly fragrant. Dense spreading growth. Very popular as a container plant. Flowers early to mid season.
Snippet (1971)
Small pale pink semi-double. Eventually a dense compact bush but somewhat open when young. Flowers mid season.
Tiny Princess (1961)
Miniature semi-double to peony form. White to very pale pink with darker tints. Slow growing and may become rather open but occasional pinching back will produce a neat low bush. Flowers early to mid season.
I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.
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Grow the BEST Tasting Tomatoes
Tired of tomatoes that are rock hard and taste like cardboard? Stupid question! Use these tips to grow your own tomatoes bursting with flavour.Tomatoes are the most popular home garden vegetable grown for good reason.
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